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Painting Foamies.
- crash happy
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There are a multitude of videos on YouTube advocating everything under the sun, & quite frankly I'm getting one of my dizzy spells!
Any ideas?
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- Quorneng
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Cheapest by volume are the big 500 ml bottles but you can multi colour packs of small bottles or tubes.
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- Quorneng
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Water based, but 'shower' proof when dry, they are pretty thick.
Two coats, with a light sand in between, on the long Q400 fuselage gave a reasonable colour and finish.
Taken with a flash its actually more purple!
Including a light white coat on the white Depron wings and tail the paint added just under 1 oz to the all up.
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- paul d
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balsa is best.
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- Eric
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Stay clear of petroleum-based paints (and adhesives) or you will have a large hole where the plastic used to be!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Phil Wood
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The break is just under the motor where the Fuz goes narrow. As you can see, with a bit more sanding it could have been a nice smooth finish. A coat of clear lacquer might have helped as well. ..... You have a great range of cheap colours by buying the little emulsion tester pots as well.
I just own the forum .... you guys make it great thanks.
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Also a limited range in spray cans, including clear for a nice shiny finish, I do like shiny !
I am a bit peaved with the suppliers I got the spare wings from though. Unpacked them to find they hadn't supplied a new carbon fiber tube to join the wings!
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- Quorneng
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Do be careful with spray lacquer even if they are 'acrylic'. With spray its not the 'paint' that is the problem but the propellant. Most will attack the foam until it dries off completely.
I have sprayed acrylic painted Depron with car clear lacquer to get a glossy(ish) finish but only by using very light coats and being super careful to avoid creating local 'wet' patches as these soften any previous lacquer coats, then the acrylic paint, allowing a chemical attack on the foam. Whilst not usually structurally serious its does rather ruin the gloss effect you are trying to achieve!
The only recovery I have found is to leave it for several weeks to fully harden and then to 'start again' rubbing down with wet and dry.
My Fairey Delta had the benefit of this approach.
It went from this dead matt (actually emulsion) as built.
Sanded to this.
To this acrylic paint + lacquer
And it probably helped that the original paint had dried for 2 years before it was repained!
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I am going to follow the general consensus of opinion and use acrylic. I'll experiment with the clear on a piece of old wing.
It's definitely going to have a lot less paint this time. Perhaps it might get off the ground without flaps!
Thanks for all the advice.
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- Eric
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Over time, due to the flexible surface, the paint flaked off again, leaving little piles on the floor where the model had been standing, in between uses.
Heat-shrink films won't stick either, but oddly - epoxy will! Self-adhesive tapes will stick.
So don't expect a fantastic blemish-free painted surface on a foamy model.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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I use gallons of epoxy for boat repairs so I tried some epoxy primer on a scrap bit of foam, works great.
One thin coat applied by brush is perfect. If you try & lay down several thick coats the foam goes soft, but after four days it had hardened again & it sticks like sh-t to a blanket. The primer can then be painted with polyurethane to give a gloss finish. Thanks for that little nugget.
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- Eric
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Don't forget epoxy 'going off' is an exothermic reaction, and the generated heat will soften plastics.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Specialbuilder
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Wouldn't it be great to find a material that didn't need its surface filling?
Martin
A man needs a plan... and a shed
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