- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
"Collectors" kits: To build or not?
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
New here, although far from new to aeromodelling. I was rather obsessive about it up to around 1980, then life and work(also aeronautical) got in the way and stayed there. Now I'm an old and crusty Aero-Engineer who's drifting back to it. My interests were primarily free flight rubber powered scale and still have the remains of a few of them. However, question:
I've acquired some vintage (pre-WW2) kits in various states of degradation (they belonged to my father). Some are remains of models that he built, one part built, all restorable with a bit of effort. Rarities like a FROG 25" span Lysander and a little FROG BA swallow and parts of Leopard and Hornet Moths from the same range. I could restore the kits as kits, but these things were produced to build and fly so my instinct is to do just that. After all, if we collect ancient kits then, when it comes our time to keel over, they'll be flogged off through house clearance and then end up on someone else's shelf until they do likewise. Cycle repeats and model never fulfils its purpose while slowly degrading through time-rash.
What is the general view on building from really old kits, rather than preserving them/building copies? (I also have several engines from the '40s, one from 1941, that need airframes so this may come up again).
Nice to meet you all.
Jon
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- THE BLACKBIRD
-
- Offline
- Forum Master
-
- Posts: 6732
- Thank you received: 10572
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Quorneng
-
- Offline
- Forum Master
-
- Posts: 10058
- Thank you received: 19042
I fear you may find that where balsa is used it may be rather brittle after all this time.
For most building a "new" antique plane design is considered a more practical option.
I have a couple of 50 year old balsa planes. I certainly don't remember balsa being that delicate when I built them.
Of course the choice is down to you whether to actually fly a true vintage kit.
Do let us see plenty of pictures of any vintage build you do, before you fly them.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Eric
-
- Offline
- Moderator
-
- Posts: 15334
- Thank you received: 14141
Your best option would be to use the original wood components as templates, and make all new components with 'new' wood and adhesives, as you want to make flying models. Keep the originals in the box, then you have reference for the repairs that will inevitably be required.
(Be prepared to be horrified by the price of timber these days!)
Also - don't use the original plan as an accurate guide. A lot of the really old plans were printed on paper that - over time - moves a little bit - either stretching, or shrinking, in one plane or the other. Again, it can age badly, discolour, or start to break up. They were never expected to last long, so weren't printed on the best quality paper! (think of really old newspaper cuttings!)
You may also discover that good model-shops are very thin on the ground, now, and you have to resort to mail-order for almost everything.
Whereabouts on this crazy planet are you located? I'm in Warrington, Cheshire. UK
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
I'll aim to engage properly, but life is still pretty busy as, although I attempted to retire to a degree, I seem to have more work than ever. Current builds are a VMC Blackburn which I am attempting to put on a strict diet as it is way too heavy as designed (far too much wire where it isn't needed), and a DH71 for free flight with a mills 0.75 which is on my drawing board at present. Totally unsuitable shape for free flight, which is why I am doing it of course.
Quorneng: Yes, old wood can appear brittle. This is home ground for me as I have spent much time around wooden structures. The usual reason is the moisture content, and when stored indoors in a heated house balsa does go that way. In my own experience, reconditioning it in the equivalent of a cool draughty hanger sorts it out after a while, lthough things like acid content in paper coverings probably don't help over time. Note that proper jap tissue is acid free, which is why archivists use it in book preservation.
Eric: Thanks for the comment on instability of old plans. I was aiming to get the plans copied for use as the originals tend to get very brittle and I suspect that Outerzone might appreciate the resulting scans.
By the way, I'm on the South Coast, Titchfield, in the green gap between Southampton and Portsmouth. Biggest issue is finding somewhere to fly free flight that isn't miles away. All the local clubs seem to be radio only and my old club at Oxford is a bit of a drive (although they have one of the best sites in the UK).
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Eric
-
- Offline
- Moderator
-
- Posts: 15334
- Thank you received: 14141
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Quorneng
-
- Offline
- Forum Master
-
- Posts: 10058
- Thank you received: 19042
Certainly not pre war but from 1966 bought at what was the only but good model shop in Loughborough which surprise, surprise no longer exists.
I built the wing and cut out the fuselage formers but went no further as the bit I did like was the wing being held on by rubber bands from inside the cockpit and pulling on a single hook at the wing centre. The complete wing is in my loft somewhere!
It got put in the loft of my parents house as the complexities of electric powered flight rather took over my aeromodelling interest before my career took precedence for the next 30 years.
After my parents died it got transferred to my various lofts along with the rest of my model making history!
If ever completed it would be 3 channel RC and electric powered.
Attachments:
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- THE BLACKBIRD
-
- Offline
- Forum Master
-
- Posts: 6732
- Thank you received: 10572
Amazing stuff
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Klipkopwildlife
-
- Offline
- Administrator
-
- I'm supposed to be retired!
My personal feeling is that, since the integrity of the parts is questionable and irreplaceable it's better to use them as templates for a new build using new materials. The wood quality of these old kits was suspect anyway. Choosing the right density and grain direction will always give a better flier.
I'm interested in the old engines. Any engine that is un-run needs to be left just like that. If it has been run the chances are it's gummed solid, read Brian Winch on dealing with this. Once un-gummed use it with new technology oils and additives, it won't smell as good but it'll last a hell of a lot longer
Do it now, you may never get another chance
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
Old balsa is an interesting problem. As well as a few remains/kits, my father also had a small stash of pre-war balsa. As one of my roles in the past was to keep a technical structural eye on the airworthiness of some very early aircraft, behaviour of ageing wood structures is of interest to me. One mentor in this had been an advisor to the Shuttleworth collection. That their hangars are draughty and unheated is partly his doing as, for timber to display its best mechanical properties it must be at the correct moisture content. Around 12-15% by weight is good. Balsa is no different and keeping a balsa airframe in a centrally heated house will result in a more brittle structure in time. I've tried some of that pre-war balsa, both very dry (pretty useless) and reconditioned (left to stabilise in an unheated outbuilding) not astounding, but way better. I'm not convinced by the age argument, but there was certainly some lousy timber to be found in old kits on occasion, which was lousy timber when it was put in the box.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Klipkopwildlife
-
- Offline
- Administrator
-
- I'm supposed to be retired!
Do it now, you may never get another chance
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Quorneng
-
- Offline
- Forum Master
-
- Posts: 10058
- Thank you received: 19042
Probably the most unlikely is this petrol 2 stroke that my dad picked up at a SMEE jumble in about 1955.
My dad did the research and found it was made by Henley Products and dated from 1946.
Then there is my dads 5cc Kestrel.
Another petrol 2 stroke, with an integral fuel tank, internal fuel passage and a rotary valve. Spark ignition so pre war. An Edgar T Westbury design all a pretty advanced for its day.
They are both free turning but unrun either by me or as far as I know by my dad.
Then there is the 5cc petrol 4 stroke that my dad made from scratch to demonstrate "proper" fuel economy.
My dad did a lot of test running with it as well as a short run by me several years after his death.
A rather nerve wracking affair as I do not possess the engineering skills to mend it should it break.
Unusual in that it uses a separate oil tank with a dry sump recirculating oil system so runs on straight pump petrol.
The sad part is there are more!
Attachments:
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JonHow
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
-
- Posts: 6
- Thank you received: 14
Just tried to post pictures. It seems to want a web link and I can't just drop a file?
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.