Electric set up for multimotor model

Ok Dean i will do that, ill sort them out.
Eric i dont know if it is worth buying anything for it as it is very heavy, i was new to the hobby again, never done fibre glassing before and i think i got to much on.
Ill see
I was going to fit the batteries from underneath in my ignorance, dont think it was a good idea now, a removable cockpit is the answer
I was going to use two esc's one for the outboard one for the inboard mine were 30A with the lipo's and esc's in the fuselarge
Its a nice build Dean i used the complete pack of wood from RCM&E

The way I see it, the only + to can motors was that you could hook them up to one ESC (speedo). Everything else is against them, weight, power output and Electrical noise. (Did I miss anything?)
By the way, if your BECs are Linear (read the blurb that comes with the ESC) you do not need to remove the positive wires from the ESCs. If they are the other kind then you do, because they will fight and end up frying your RX and servos!

I did send Tony Nijhuis an email told him what experience I had and asked about what would be a good model of his to build. I did mention I was quite fond of the B-17 :lol: :lol:
His reply was that it wasn't that much harder to build than any of his other designs and it would be better to build something I really liked that way there would be more chance of actually finishing it!!

I May try a different method of covering it to what I am used to (only used iron on coverings!!)
I have heard people talking about using brown paper and pva, A chap on RCM&E covered a hurricane with this method and the results were really good.

Dean

(Did I miss anything?) - yes, Klippy! We worked them so hard that the brushes didn't last very long, and they got rather hot!

Dean, I've used tish and cellulose dope - a long time ago, and nylon and cellulose. I much prefer iron-on, it is so much easier once you master it. (and a lot less smelly!)

I prefer iron on like solartec

Yes, solartex looks like doped nylon, because of the fabric finish.
When you crash a 'tex model, you don't need a bin-bag, it is already bagged up for you! :S

What paints can I use on solartex?
I think I Will use solartex on my puppeteer so are the paints fuel proof or do they need treating?

You can get fuel proofed paint or fuel proof afterwards the choice Dean is yours.But dont do it now,wait until you get to the paint stage !!

Ha ha I was going to cover it then build it :lol: :lol: :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Dean M wrote: Ha ha I was going to cover it then build it :lol: :lol: :lol:

I would test fly it first just to see if you like it.

Good idea OF if I don't like it I can send the cnc kit back :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


would THESE motors be any good? they say 25A so would that be about 250 watts on a 3s?

Dean

That's about the equivalent of a 10 to 15 two-stroke. (give or take the variants of volts and prop, etc). So four should be enough for a ten lb model. (100 watts per lb)

Iv been flying a bigger version of this motor in my revolvers, very good motor, and very tough, mine's gone nose first into the ground three times now and it's still as good as new

Yes, BB, the ground takes quite a lot of hitting before it breaks! :evil: