Strange beeping when plugging in...

leaving a battery connected lead to it draining once before
Yes, it would. The speed controller circuitry would still be running! (and so would the rx and servo amps!) If the rx had responded to some spurious radio signal, the motor could have started, and made a mess of something! Throttle closed is NOT radio off - or there would be a lot of crashed electric-assisted gliders!
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Regarding the no benches problem - invest in, or make, a folding camping table! Think 'out of the box'! :woohoo:
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If you set up at home, then go to the field and fly, that means you will only get one flight! What a waste of a journey to the field!
Of course, you could take several batteries or a 12v battery and a lipo charger with you, but you still have to unplug and remove the battery to re-charge or exchange it!
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If you want to put a switch in for when you are setting up, and need to keep disconnecting the battery - use an old feeble pack, cut the red lead, and put a cheap car switch in line. That will do the job, but do NOT run the motor with a prop on, for more than a second or two - the switch will melt!

Eric, looks like I'll have to keep plugging/unplugging. I'd get several flights as I have several models I could take in one hit (not being very big ones). I suppose IC is the answer, but means a lot more space required in the car. Small car means no camping tables. My wife comes with me and so does our wee dog. It's a bit of a trek to my new club, but it's very scenic when we get there and she enjoys the trip out. We usually stop for a meal on the way back.
I have a set of pasting tables, but they'd occupy too much space in the "boot".
Thanks,
Martin

Different Tx. with a roller instead of buttons, so I'll try to interpret from one to tother.

M

Martin, sorry I came down a bit hard, I've seen too many sliced fingers in my time and I wanted to get it said quickly! You did say "the prop kicks"
If you're using Deans plugs here's a tip, drill a hole in the side of each plug, then you can us a pair of circlip pliers to assemble and disassemble them. Another way is to use some epoxy putty to put a handle on each side, adds weight but gives you something to pull on.
Yet another one, put a Deans socket in the main battery lead of the ESC (I would put it in the red line but it's your choice) and secure the socket to the side of the aircraft, then short circuit (wire the two terminals together) a Deans plug. When you want to fly the aircraft just plug your special plug into the socket and Robert's your Aunties husband.

Tony, it was just easier than typing motor shaft.
I like your tips and will take up the circlip pliers one, thanks.

Taxi tested my Pietenpol and Scout on tarmac this evening over the village Playing fields and tested my sprung steerable tail wheels on both and they are much more controllable. Both would have taken off with more beans if it weren't for a dozen kids around, none of whom could give a toss! But I don't take chances with a bacon slicer on the front! Some problems shown up which I will sort out tonight and then see if they might work on Sunday. Here's the Flite Test fleet. Haven't tried the Spitfire yet. It needs to be maidened by an experienced pilot before I'm let loose with it.

Martin