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I need a prop,
- CeeJayP
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now there is nothing wrong with the one for it at present its just along with its refurb (and being a bit mad perhaps) i thought a nice new one would be good, now you dont just trip over these size props in your LMS, and to get one made is into 3 figures, and i dont mean £9.99, i thought in a Jeremy Clarkson moment, "cant be THAT hard surely" so orf i jolly well went.
what follows is in no way advocated as THE way to carve a prop, its just my self taught way, now there is a bit of maths to get your noggin around but its only simple trigonometry so no fear there then, BUT for my first attempt i cheated. i constructed a simple MDF jig to hold the prop i allready had, marked it out at intervals along its diameter and measured up from base to centre line of the blade all the way around and marked the hight in my little note book, the prop was then turned 90 degrees and an outline drawn nice and neatly around the blade, from this i made a template to use to draw the profile onto my lump of tree
after the profile was tranfered to wood lump it was swiftly cut on band saw, new blade essential here, then it was laid onto the jig clamped in place with the big silver nut you may see in some of the pics, at the marked points the sizes aquired from the original were marked on the blank and you end up with a line of dots you join up and end up with the centreline of the blade all around the blank
the lump of tree in this case being a laminated lump of beech and mahogony. in this pic you should be able to see the laminations and the transfered pencil marks.
do this on both blades, and when done its out with the wood removeing equipment
chris
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- CeeJayP
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now the wood workers out ther would be wise to look away now, as i got out the spokeshaves and scrapers and then put them all away and found just what an old engineer needed, a big file, well a nice sharp half round surform to be exact :whistle: and set about removing wood.
after roughing it out to a couple of mm either side of the centreline i then drew another guide line along the thickest point on the original blade at a distance measured at the same points but back from the leading edge
then set about refining it to start to give an aerofoil shape to the blade, still only rough here but a bit more accurate, the section is a basic clarke Y with a slight undercamber when finished, but for now this is where i am at, one blade roughed out and awaiting the time to do t,other one which will take a bit longer cos now i have to keep refering to the other blade and sizes to ensure i dont end up with a 30x12 by 30 x10 3/4 :woohoo:
so heres the leading edge shot of the first blade
thats all for now peeps.
well all except for a slight confession, i have done a test prop to learn the art a bit before commiting deadly surgery on a nice bit of wood, and ended up with a prop shaped bit of wood, but wrong in a few area,s but it looks nice on a wall :whistle: :whistle:
chris
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- old fart
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CeeJayP wrote: ....if you want to be a bit anoracky here it is a propellor as it propelling "pushing" the aeroplane along from behind whereas one on the front of a plane is pulling it along and is an airscrew!!) but hey i need one for the back of the DH2 whatever its called!!
I believe it's otherwise called a "tractor prop" used for traction.
There is nothing like a dream to create the future.
Electrickery is the work of the devil.
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chris
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Do it now, you may never get another chance
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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There is nothing like a dream to create the future.
Electrickery is the work of the devil.
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- CeeJayP
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an expert!!!
chris
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- CeeJayP
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as seen before i hacked a lot of wood away to get it to roughly the correct shape then started to mark it out for the finishing bit, front of blade has the line of the thickest part of the section marked on,
back is cross hatched to enable me to see where i sand as the rear face will eventualy be undercambered very slightly
this is done with a purpose made sanding block with the curve on its face
chris
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- CeeJayP
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Its finished, subject to final testing etc it will need makers logo,s and perhaps the "copper" leading edge painting on but i will see if it makes a draft first, finish sanded, checked tracking (its out less than 1mm) checked radius of each blade, cock on, and two coats of sealer sanded with very fine paper twixt each coat i ended up with this.
front
Back
and one assembled onto prop driver
..
cheers all
chris
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