Build-along-a Fury

home decorating emulsion paints work well and be sprayed once diluted.

Tony B

This may help. www.google.co.uk/search?ei=rNvHWt24ONKHg...0.0....0.bTEFscYgUdk

I said 'I've bought an Airfix kit in 1:48 scale as a reference.' Thanks Eric, the Humbrol numbers quoted were for the Airfix kit. I hadn't thought of car aerosols for the RC version, I'll see what's available at the hardware store. I find with paints it's very hard to judge colour from a picture, for me the only way is to paint a piece of card with the right colour and compare in store. Even that doesn't work, I find fluorescents change the colour, the only way is to go outside in the daylight!
I was thinking of trying home emulsions for the RC version, I suspect I might have to watch the weight.
Nobody got any comments about the heavyweight tissue?

Klipkopwildlife wrote: ......Nobody got any comments about the heavyweight tissue?

Ha ha....well K, if you really want a comment then here goes: "Nooooooooooooooo......!!!"

I would cover with either silk or nylon over lightweight tissue, or lightweight tissue over mylar. If you need info on the techniques, I can send them to you.

Regarding the Humbrol colour, would you like me to paint some bits of plastic card with the appropriate shades and send them to you...I would hope that those would get through internal customs without too much of an issue?

Not necessary at the moment thanks Andy but I may take a Rain check. When I lived in Japan we could get the most remarkable lightweight silk, the artists use it for Smee (spelling incorrect) paintings.
Could I ask you to do a brief script in Technical or Building techniques on Mylar and Silk?
Where does one buy Mylar and silk suitable for our purposes?

Is Mylar the same stuff that's used in the gardening industry? I can get 125micron reflective or clear but 125 sounds a bit thick to me. I see it's a PET, how do you glue it?

Mike Woodhouse can supply the materials and has some useful how-to-do-it publications, worth a read. I will be using silk over tissue for my Fury.
how-to-do-it-publications

Cheers
Danny

Ooooo just noticed Mike is now charging for the information.........
Better wait and see if Andy can send you what he has from Aeromodeller, if not I think he sent me some stuff a year or so back
Cheers
Danny

Ok Klip One method I've heard of to glue Mylar is to coat frame with contact glue (clear if using clear film ) and allow to tack off.Lay film in place and use the iron to secure the centre of each end pulling the film tight.Then work out from the tacked point using the iron to secure to the frame all round....No idea of the temperature numbers i'm afraid.Then hot air to shrink.
Sourcing the silk and nylon, speak to fabric suppliers and dressmakers explaining what you want regarding weight/weave etc. Also artists suppliers Most would be glad to send you samples. As to paint colours it depends on what stage of the aircraft's life you wish to show.Either fresh from the factory or weathered and scuffed to death. Shiny and new or sun bleached and dull. I feel that as close as colour match as you can buy then experimental blending to get it right if
you want as new finish.Otherwise go with from the can colour. One other option is to take a sample swatch/card to the paint shop and have the colour mixed. Just sample pots. They might be enough even to finish the job. Especially if sprayed Hope you followed my ramblings and it helped. Regards John O/T

I can get 125micron reflective or clear but 125 sounds a bit thick to me.

This very thick , certainly for the smaller FF models I've been building. The most popular size for a Tissue over Mylar finish is 10 Microns. The thickest I've seen for model covering is 15 microns.

I stick it on with Cover Grip or similar brushed onto the frame , stick the edges down on a low heat (150C) and then shrink at 200C with a covering iron. Give a coat of Non shrinking Dope at 50/50 let it dry and then lay wet tissue on top brushing on cellulose thinners to lift the dope into the tissue When dry give another coat of Non shrinking dope.

Obviously this works well on smaller models not sure its suitable for a bigger RC models ...or maybe there is a scaled up version for larger models ??.. actually just read back in the thread and it probably is strong enough

Covering with silk over tissue:

Cover the frame with tissue, water shrink and dope with one coat of 50:50 thinned dope.

Iron wrinkles out of the silk. Lay it over the frame and fix with wallpaper paste, starting in the middle of the frame and working towards the edges. When dry, give one or two coats of thinned dope to seal, then paint. The covering is much stronger than silk, lighter than doped silk (less dope used to fill the grain), lighter than nylon and lighter than solartex.

A very good guide to covering with mylar and tissue can be found at:
www.gryffinaero.com/models/ffpages/tips/...ue.html#tissueattach
here
Apologies for not creating a link it’s beyond my tech knowledge!

I followed this method as my first attempt at this process on a Vic Smeed Tomboy. It worked really well and I will definitely use it again. The mylar was 10 micron. Basically I treated it like covering with solarfilm but used balsaloc over a lightly doped airframe to seal the grain.

I may be missing something but it does seem odd to cover a plane with tissue over what should be a perfectly usable mylar skin. Is there some technical advantage or is it simply to make it look like it has an old style tissue covering?

Strength with lightness I think Q

Clearly there more ways than one to skin a cat - or cover a model. The model in the foreground had heavy weight Modelspan over 10 micron Mylar. Mylar attached to the wing framework with Balsaloc or Balsarite (can't remember which - this is over 20 years ago). The tissue was attached to the Mylay by brusing thinned dope through it and making sure that at the TE and LE there was a good bond between the top and bottom pieces of tissue. In retrospect I think that lightweight tissue would have been perfectly adequate. Both models were 48" span, 4 lbs AUW. The reason for using the tissue/Mylar approach was because the models have Detroiter structure wings which are heavily dependent upon a strong stressed skin covering. It worked fine. Out of interest, the other model had a different approach - Solarfilm over heavyweight tissue.
Mike