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Rough Field Flying
- FlyingTomato
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For something to do during the grim winter months I built Seagull Boomerang kit (traditional balsa and ply build) and again went electric.
I went up the moors for a maiden flight at the weekend and thought I'd have a quick test glide. Bit of a heavy landing in the heather (but no worse than would happen at the end of a powered flight). Result one broken prop and a bent motor shaft.
I'd not fitted any undercarriage as I was hand launching and landing on heather. I hadn't figured on props and electric motors being so fragile , though of course at 2.5kg the Boomerang is a lot heavier than the foamies I've been flying.
Any suggestions as how I can prevent a repeat (besides fitting the undercarriage and joining a club with a grass strip).
Incidentally anyone know the size of Allen key I need to remove the bent shaft on a Turnigy SK3 3548 ? It seems to be between 1.5 and 2mm
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- Quorneng
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According to this web site an M3 hex key is 2.5 mm across flats.
The fact that you bent the shaft doing a belly land perhaps suggests you need a weaker prop rather than a stronger one!
In very rough ground adding undercarriage is a mixed blessing. It comes down to which is better, breaking a prop or ripping out the U/C?
The only other solution is to put the ESC brake on which might stop the prop rotating if the gliding speed is slow enough. Unless the prop stops exactly vertical it stand a good chance of being knocked out of the way.
It is a technique I use on my rough field belly landers but ultimately its touch down speed that is the prop killer.
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- Mike Rolls
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Mike
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- Eric
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It is designed for rough fields, with it's huge balloon tyres and bouncy 'legs'.
Out of the box, it makes a good docile trainer, but you can wind up the throws and really chuck it about.
With a 3S2200 it will take off in about 6" and go nearly vertical - and with practice, a bit of headwind, and flaps,. it will land in less than a foot.
The stall is very tame, unless you really abuse it - merely running out of speed and sinking flat.
My purple one even came with a set of floats, and the matching wire legs, and an fpv build-it-yourself camera mount to replace the fake canopy. AND - just to add to the fun, the speedo has an extra channel on it, so you can switch in reverse thrust, and baffle the spectators when you taxi backwards to the pits! (It is intended for use on floats, so if you get stuck in some weeds, you can reverse out).
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Flytilbroke
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- Not Tired, long retired "Bob"
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Have fun.
Ps, Slope Soarers seldom have undercarraige.
Have a nice Day, unless I don't like you.
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- FlyingTomato
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Maybe I should take up the other suggestion - remove the motor and battery and use it as a slope soarer ????
More seriously I guess I'll just hang onto it and fly my foamies until I feel ready to join a club and take the A certificate
Incidentally I think the M3 mentioned on the hobbyking website is the engine mounting bolts. The grub screws are much smaller than that
Cheers
Al
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- Quorneng
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Competition gliders are expected to be able to climb vertically from a hand launch. Aluminium hubs and carbon fibre blades but not cheap though.
This 18x10 is claimed to generate 6.5 kg of thrust using a Turnigy SK3 5055-320 on a 6s LiPo.
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- Eric
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Mike Rolls
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Mike
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- FlyingTomato
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I'd still be a bit concerned about those carbon fibre blades though, presumably very rigid so great for performance on a competition model but for my needs (relatively heavy model, rough landings on heather and performance relatively unimportant) I'd be happier with something more flexible like good old fashioned nylon. I can only find carbon ones in the sizes I need (12x7 - 13x7 or thereabouts)
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- FlyingTomato
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I'd still be a bit concerned about those carbon fibre blades though, presumably very rigid so great for performance on a competition model but for my needs (relatively heavy model, rough landings on heather and performance relatively unimportant) I'd be happier with something more flexible like good old fashioned nylon. I can only find carbon ones in the sizes I need (12x7 - 13x7 or thereabouts).
One additional consideration. From the pictures I've been able to find on the internet the props on powered gliders fold flush with the nose of the model. With the Boomerang this may or may not be the case depending on the position at which the prop stops
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- Eric
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You'd be lucky to find a nylon prop these days - people prefer the rigid plastic ones, or the carbon ones, that retain their pitch at various rpm's.
A folder on a Boomerang - mount the motor a bit further forward, and mod the nose profile slightly. It might not look too pretty, but a half-folded prop will survive better than a non-folder. You can replace individual blades, don't forget - it's only a single (usually hex) bolt, without removing the spinner or hub! (Best to balance them, though, or change in pairs, and keep the good one for emergencies). A pair of blades is about £5.
p.s. DON'T try using a folding prop on an i/c engine!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Mike Rolls
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Certainly not normal commercial folders - although custom made folders are de riguer for may top line F1C models, with powerful 15s turning around 30,000 rpm.Eric wrote: p.s. DON'T try using a folding prop on an i/c engine!
Mike (another nylon boiler from the good old days!)
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