Hacker DH82 Tiger Moth build (continuation)

Here's a couple of suggestions for you Nigel:

Spraying - it's the only way to get an effective and light colouring to a flying scale model. A single action external mix air-brush is perfectly adequate and they are not expensive. I'll say no more on the subject and leave it with you......

Coloured tissue covering can be quite effective, but unless you use silver tissue, the covering will always be translucent, and therefore, model-like. Here's a couple of examples, first off, my Veron Tiger Moth with the black markings ink-jet printed onto yellow Esaki tissue. The roundels were sprayed, but I've had success with coloured tissue cut with a compass cutter. You need to paint the back of the tissue first to make it opaque. The monoplane is the KK Piper Family Cruiser, and both aircraft have 'battle damage':



The next one is Kev Wallace's (planekrazy) VMC Tiger Moth covered in silver Esaki tissue with markings printed onto thin paper (airmail weight) and stick on with tissue paste:

Squirrelnet wrote: Looking good Nigel

I thought I would be a bit cheeky and throw a few suggestions your way

There's some very simple yellow ones in RAF Training colours

My favourite is the Brooklands Flying School red and black with tricky small lettering to do...

Or maybe you fancy a challenge ???

No cheek at all, I can look at TM pics all night long
Yellow is definitely plentiful in my coverings box. The Brooklands scheme has been done iirc and I'm afraid I'm motivated by different. The last one certainly scores top on Gor Blimey

Firewood wrote: Nigel I use calligraphy inks Winsor & Newton sold in the Range,these have such a light pigment and water based they add almost no weight they will go well on balsa or tissue either spray or brush better painted on the balsa before you glue together as as it will not penetrate the glue and be a slightly different colour over the glue.

thanks for the input, I will put it on my list of things to look into.
is there a large range, for colour matching for example?

Thanks Andy, erudite as ever. When I have more time...

What I don't know the answer to is why film is so unpopular? The Brooklands TM for example appears to have a fully gloss finish - highly suitable for replication by film surely? That must apply to many if not most solid-bodied (aluminium skinned?) aircraft? Not for a WW-I classic for sure. (Is the answer is the rulebooks/judges guides? )

My first choice for some time - while the internet was being developed... that I'm not aware has been modelled, is relatively simple, and matches some tissue I have was G-ANMV from the TM 'Super Profile' book by Michael F. Jerram. There's also a picture online with slightly different red-shades.

The then pilot suffered an engine failure during a paid aerobatic passenger flight and landed in a field which collapsed the undercarriage and upended the plane. Pilot and passenger were ok. It has since been rebuilt but painted in military colours, so afaik, there are only three photographs of it in this scheme. (Not sure what inspired the balck stripe on the tail. Maybe a nightmare, or ran out of red paint? Will probably overlook that detail if I go this route. Reality may also magically change nah, that would be cheating.)

Any votes?

Nigel wrote:

Firewood wrote: Nigel I use calligraphy inks Winsor & Newton sold in the Range,these have such a light pigment and water based they add almost no weight they will go well on balsa or tissue either spray or brush better painted on the balsa before you glue together as as it will not penetrate the glue and be a slightly different colour over the glue.

thanks for the input, I will put it on my list of things to look into.
is there a large range, for colour matching for example?

They dont have large selection you would need look at www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/inks-and-drawing/drawing-inks to see the full range.

I recently rediscovered G-BSTJ in RC Scale Aircraft Aug/Sept 92 - an excellent run of mags imho. Quite pretty if a bit more tricky to cover. Do you think the sunburst is doable with water slide transfers? Not sure how heavy they are in large areas and compound nose could be a problem.
I think it has been re-registered as G-DHZF and painted trainer silver/yellow stripe. BSTJ is de-registered on the register Andy posted. OO-MEH is another earlier registration. BSTJ is almost identical apart from that but I can't find it online atm.



I seem to have a knack to pick em though... G-BSTJ suffered 'engine shock loading' and wingtip damage. The pilot started it by himself but it kicked the brakes off in the process. Unfortunately he hadn't used wheel chocks and the plane moved forward. He grabbed it but it spun round and tipped over onto its nose in the process, I presume that ruined the engine.

Any votes? Anyone remember a previous model of it?

Anyway model progress was limited to checking rigging angles yesterday evening so no new photies to display.

Now that is nice colour scheme,well worth the effort and you will end up with a Tiger Moth that stands out in crowd

My first choice for some time - while the internet was being developed... that I'm not aware has been modelled, is relatively simple, and matches some tissue I have was G-ANMV from the TM 'Super Profile' book by Michael F. Jerram. There's also a picture online with slightly different red-shades.

This is an interesting one Nigel. I would do the sunburst with tissue layer over the base colour tissue . The scheme here with red of yellow? would work well with that method . the black could also be black tissue overlaid on the base covering. The reg letters I would do with inkjet waterslide transfers.

Firewood wrote:

Nigel wrote:

Firewood wrote: Nigel I use calligraphy inks Winsor & Newton sold in the Range,these have such a light pigment and water based they add almost no weight they will go well on balsa or tissue either spray or brush better painted on the balsa before you glue together as as it will not penetrate the glue and be a slightly different colour over the glue.

thanks for the input, I will put it on my list of things to look into.
is there a large range, for colour matching for example?

They dont have large selection you would need look at www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/inks-and-drawing/drawing-inks to see the full range.

Thanks, they are certainly vivid. I get the feeling here is yet another technology/skill I have zero experience of, and no time to get into it. Could you dye white tissue with this, within the pre-shrink method perhaps?

Squirrelnet wrote:

My first choice for some time - while the internet was being developed... that I'm not aware has been modelled, is relatively simple, and matches some tissue I have was G-ANMV from the TM 'Super Profile' book by Michael F. Jerram. There's also a picture online with slightly different red-shades.

This is an interesting one Nigel. I would do the sunburst with tissue layer over the base colour tissue . The scheme here with red over yellow would work well with that method . the black could also be black tissue overlaid on the base covering. The reg letters I would do with inkjet waterslide transfers.

Yes, my thinking also, and within my capabilities. I've used the particular tissue on another model with water based dope (whatever it's called, can't be bothered to get up and go to the workshop to look ).

The white and green scheme would be better suited to film covering, also something I'm comfortable doing. I could try different weights of film to compare opaqueness - hang on, opacity. Yup.

Only managed to commit glueing tonight, the cabane tubes to the bulkhead. That's usually when things go/stay wrong so I may have glued it all into one mess. So no new photos. Strange behaviour to skim .005" to align the cabane when the fuselage is quite banana like. I know no-one will see it in the air, or possibly notice it on the judges table, but I'll know, and that feeling takes DECADES to fade away.

I glued a shim of balsa on the lower wing root because the sweepback was greater than the top wing, whereas it should be about 1degree less. Small but noticeably non-parallel. Then I sanded it to a nice taper, in the process taking out the unevenness of the previous face. Quite please with myself I was. Then realised I'd made the taper the wrong way and increased the sweepback... one step forward, etc.

Nigel wrote:

Firewood wrote:

Nigel wrote:

Firewood wrote: Nigel I use calligraphy inks Winsor & Newton sold in the Range,these have such a light pigment and water based they add almost no weight they will go well on balsa or tissue either spray or brush better painted on the balsa before you glue together as as it will not penetrate the glue and be a slightly different colour over the glue.

thanks for the input, I will put it on my list of things to look into.
is there a large range, for colour matching for example?

They dont have large selection you would need look at www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/inks-and-drawing/drawing-inks to see the full range.

Thanks, they are certainly vivid. I get the feeling here is yet another technology/skill I have zero experience of, and no time to get into it. Could you dye white tissue with this, within the pre-shrink method perhaps?

Yes you can use it to dye tissue.I`m going to try mixing with Eze-Dope to give more intensity to it`s color especially as some of this tissue loses its color so rapidly.

You can use artists water colour paints to great effect .You know the ones found in the sets made up of little blocks and you add water with the brush. Also some found in pots and tubes.The weight gain is almost nil and will shrink tissue just like plain water. Brush or spray on.Colour intensity can be increased by repeated coatings. Just the coloured water of course although a thicker mix can be used on bare wood