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Airco DH2
- Magpie
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The plans were for a 38" electric R/C but am scaling it down to 28" span for rubber power on account of I have neither of the hitec items.
The propellor sits in a cut-out in the rear of the wing so that's a critical dimension.
On the A3 plan the span measures 470mm (2 x 235) so scaling that up by 1.5 x gives 705mm and a cut-out of 210mm.
I have a copy of Autocad 14 but it only works on my XP emulator which won't talk to my printer so it invoves a bit of jiggery-pokery to print out at the correct size.
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- Magpie
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However I have found a site which will print one out so I have put some numbers in & am going to try making my own.
The OZ plan specifies 1.5 deg incidence, & it looks on the plan as if the flat bit of the bottom of the section is 1.5 deg from the horizontal. To get the flat bit on the Airfoil Plotter horizontal I have to enter 2.1 deg in the pitch box.
Is this the same thing or do I just cut out the shape with a flat bottom & use it like that?
airfoiltools.com/plotter/index?airfoil=clarky-il
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- Eric
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That gives you zero degrees aoa..
On a Clark Y, the bottom is flat (ignoring the curve of the l/e, so it is normal to take that as the build 'zero' relative to the fuselage c/l, so the true aoa is about 2.5 degrees nose up (on the wing!)
If you 'split hairs' the Clark Y is technically undercambered, and if you draw the section up using the proper co-ordinates, you will see that.
But in model sizes, as we cannot scale down the air molecules, or it's 'stickiness', it doesn't really matter that much.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Magpie
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I have played around with the numbers & have seen it produce a concave camber.
The pitch of 2.1 deg gives a flat bottom which the OZ plan uses as the build zero, parallel to the fuselage centre line.
I have printed out a section of the correct size & scanned it back in & am now tring to use Paint Shop to draw in the cut-outs for the edges & spars,
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- Klipkopwildlife
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- Magpie
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Presumably I can pack the tailplane at the glide test stage.
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- Quorneng
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At the size you are building coupled with the fact it is a biplane of dubious aerodynamic efficiency I really wouldn't worry too much about the absolute accuracy of the wing section. Of far more importance is the left and right ribs are exactly the same and there are no twists in the wing.
By the same token the effectiveness of the tail plane is, particularly in a biplane, effected by the airflow leaving the wings. Just make sure you can adjust the tail plane incidence resulting from test glides. It will be pure luck if it is right first time.
I built a small Fokker Triplane and found the tail plane leading edge needed raising considerably to what looked like even more incidence than the wings. I did some research and to my amazement the few period pictures showed the full size was exactly the same. Apparently the down wash from the three wings meant the airflow of the tail plane had a significant downward path hence although it looked like it had a positive incidence it was actually in line with the inflight airflow.
I am not too sure the short DH2 fuselage is ideal for rubber power and the tail plane out on 'booms' might be a bit crash 'delicate' but I will follow your build and flying with interest.
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- Eric
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You may have problems 'extending' the motor, so that you can wind it - and I'd fit the rubber in a tube, to minimize the damage caused by the inevitable breakage.
I read a description once, of someone flying a fullsize replica - if I recall it was said that the DH2 could barely stumble out of it's own way.
It was restricted by practicality to making very short - low-level - straight hops, rather like the Edwardian aircraft at Old Warden.
Don't overlook the fact that it was created in the very early days of flying.
I wish you luck with it, but you may find that it makes a better display model, than a flying one!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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I'll make the tailplane adjustable with rubber bands like a glider's wings to start with.
Am I right in thinking that the tailplane acts like a lever and tries to hold itself level - or at least in line with the airflow or downwash from the wings.
The OZ model used eighth square spruce for the booms & it had a third longer wingspan.
I have seen a photo where the rubber was between the booms which would make it awkward for winding it up, (as did starting it on the actual plane).
I've thought about winding it up from the nose via a rod or even having another length of rubber in the fuselage.
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But - they did have the same gyroscopic problems caused by a large lump of spinning iron whenever they tried to change direction!
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More rubber in the fuselage - watch out for tensile crushing!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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This video shows an actual plane flying.....
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- Eric
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A canard has it's 'tailplane' at the front, and the main wing at the back - look at Bert Rutan's varieze and longeze to see canards!
The Bristol 'boxkite' had both! Elevator at the front, and rudders and another tailplane at the back!
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I think that the word 'canard' is French for Duck!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Magpie
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- Magpie
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Wound from the nose via a knitting needle - it even gives the size!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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