raptor 50

well here it is a raptor 50 nitro it has curtis main and tail blades, align gyro, a 2 in 1 battery align i will be changing the head to align.

Cor, that looks the buisness Sky

Garry

Nice one Sky - why will you swap the head for Align?
Also - no engine/muffler in there - what do you have?
And that Align 2 in 1, are you aware of the issues with them?
(I became aware but took no notice - £150 crash later, I took notice!)
HF

thanks hoverfly, i was thinking about changing head to all metal instead of plastic, the engine i have is a tt 50, the align 2 in 1 my friend has one in his chopper i dont think he has had any problems with his yet

As pod and boom helis go, it looks the BIZ, will the mechanics go into a scale body? cor, 50 size huey gunship,

if i find a nice scale body it may go in one

The Align 2 in 1 is an excellent piece of kit, absolutely ruined by the cheapest of cheap switches they fitted.
The problem is, the switch fails internally, whether due to vibration or nitro residue, but some give signals that they are on the blink (mine did) and some just fail.
MIne would register a red battery light with 90% in a 5000 mAh lipo. I read up on various forums and decided to follow advice to squirt some IPA to clean the contacts.
It 'seemed' to return to full function, only to stuff my 90 into a hedge 3 flights later. The power to the entire system is lost when the switch fails. It was a few seconds after lift off as I was powering away directly to gain altitude, I suddenly had no cyclic or collective control. The engine went into fail-safe and the heli floated down into the hedge. Probably, not much damage, but as so often happens, by the time I had registered what was going on, the switch reconnected, the heli powered up and did the chicken dance, causing more than £150 worth of damage, as I had some spares in stock already.
The only answer if you want to keep the 2 in 1 is to take it to bits, remove the switch and solder across the terminals. Check it out on something ike RCHA or Helifreaks.
You still have the remote glow and the battery monitor, but you either need to fit a remote switch which won't fail, or just use the battery connector to turn the heli on and off.
I strongly advise you to let your friend know this too.

What stage are you at with flying? The plastic head is perfectly ok and is cheaper to repair in the event of a crunch. It doesn't look so cool, but then again, in the air, who cares!
TT50 is fine - a little under-powered depending what you are doing though.

I have a TT MD530 fuselage that I am intending to put an electric 50 into. The thing is actually designed for nitro, so I am having to do some heavy surgery to adapt it and that is stalled for the moment - I'm busy building a HobbyKing 60 sized Spitfire and it's been shelved while I do.

Hope this helps
HF

thanks i will check it over if not sure i will stay with battery and switch, i was also thinking at putting a jba heli 56 in.

Do you have a JBA then Sky?
I've no experience with them personally, but most guys in the club (including me) swear by OS.
The 50 is an excellent combo of power to weight for the R50 IMO.

I have gone for overkill with the 90 - having lost both the 50 & the 90 to power issues earlier this year.
I got rid of the 2 in 1 and use 2 x 1700 mAh LIFE batteries - each individually connected to the rx, so if one power source dies, there is a back-up; no problem unless they both die - which hopefully is unlikely! They run at 6.6v so as long as you have digital servos, there is no need for a regulator. Most will cope with 0.6v over-voltage.
The 50 runs with a regulator and a 5000 mAh lipo which is regularly checked.