Junior 60 rebuild

Well the sun was shining today so I took the scruffy old bird outside and stripped the multi layers of tex off, filled 2 carrier bags!!
It's now looking really sad but it's structurally sound, it's obviously had a few very crude repairs during it's life ( not by the original owner I think as the standard of construction is very nice in places)
The centre sheeting of the wing has been replaced badly at some time so I've started to strip that away plus it gave me a chance to get a good look at the spar and braces.
luckily they look ok ( I would have scraped it if they where dodgy) no signs of oil soaking either although of oddly the firewall has had a dirty great chunk sawn out?? easy repair.
more when I get it cleaned up remove loads of unneeded wood!

Had a few spare hours today so made a start in getting some off the excess wood out of the fuse.
before:

After:

Not sure what the idea of all the internal sheeting was about, the structure is perfectly sound ( bit scruffy) without it.

Picked up the engine for this project yesterday, the head has been anodized for some reason so that'll need to come off, doesn't seem to have a lot of use but I'll still strip it just to have a look inside and to loosen things up before I run it.

Hi Paul, paw, what capacity is it, a 19 ?

I have had a paw 19 from new which must have had a good gallon of d1000 run thru it.

It originally came with out a silencer, 19ds4, a stunt engine.

I fitted a silencer early in its life, a plain bearing motor.

I use a small amount of sealer to help the silencer gaskets seal better as castor exhaust was seen to weep past the gaskets.

I recently fitted an RC carb along with new silencer gaskets, which of course weep castor, so will seal being extremely carefull so no sealer enters the head screw holes in the c/ case.

If sealer does enter the c/case holes there is the very real risk the holes will burst, due to the trapped sealer.

I know you will know to mark the Conrod so it goes back in the right way. Also the cylinder so that goes back in the same position it's been in since new. Well as close to its original position as you can get.

Some long dummy head screws will help during reassembly, removable guide pins.

From memory the prop driver is a taper fit on the crank, with no thrust washer.

If that engine was mine I you only remove the back plate via a good fitting washer to flush out the crank case.

On mine, the silencer seemed a bit blocked. No end of soaking in solvent helped with bits of carbon coming free bit by bit.

Finally I carefully removed the " baffle" which was quite coked up. I refitted by re swagging the thin swage ring.

I also made a thrust washer between the c/ case nose and prop driver to control crank end float. Shim made from thin steel from an empty aerosol can.

These engines start well by finger, not electric starter, but a good flick technique is needed.

You could make a cradle to hold the model well, and reinforce the planes nose area to accommodate any crushing effect when it's being held firmly and started. The model needs to be held well for starting so a good flick can be used on the prop.

I am sure you know all this but others may not.

Happy times ahead, nice model and engine which will have a good flight duration on very little fuel.

Enjoy.

Ran out of time for editing...

With the carb and back plate off I would soak the engine submerged in petrol for a few days, removing to turn the engine over and solvent change by filtering...

I would also shake the jam jar from time to time to aggitate the solvent and inspect for debris in the solvent.

With back plate off and suitable clean hose you can blow thru exhaust to check for blockage in the silencer.

Thanks for that Rich, it's actually a 2.49, I normally clean the exterior with meths and a proprietary oven cleaner I've found that doesn't effect the ally, some wil turn them black and leave burn marks on the surface.
Internally I use old fuel except for the piston liner, I just use light oil on those as anything aggressive can take off the castor glaze and potentially ruin the engine.