Optional receivers for use with a 2.4 ghz Futaba transmitter

If I can confirm that number 7 is the battery/aux channel I can work out the order of 1 to 6 by trial and error.

On the T6EX transmitter, the channel order is printed on the case, to the right of the display.

I thought there might be a different number assignment for Fr Sky compared with the Futaba numbering, obviously not. Well done FR Sky for keeping things simple, cheap and light weight.
Checked both receivers both functioning correctly and really easy to bind too, specially if you use a separate 4.8 battery with a switch. I ended up using connection 7 for the battery supply, although I guess you can use any spare connection.

Any of the output plugs will work as a power plug on any receiver. They all have + and - commoned on the circuit board or the servos wouldn't work! Only the signal lead is isolated.
You did ask about Futaba transmitters, and never mentioned a FRSKY receiver!
I wasn't aware that they were compatible! Make B***Y sure, with a thorough range-check - and not 20 paces!!
With Fut to Fut, and FRsky to FRsky, I get about150 yds with the rx on the ground (in the model!) and the tx hand-held at about waist height - at which point I run out of field!
The Taranis tells me verbally what the received signal strength is, (RSSI) so I don't even need to keep turning round and waggling the sticks!

The transmitter is the Futaba T6EX the recievers are FrSky TFR6 long range.
All the reviews for these receivers have been positive at over 1.5 km + range. Obviously I will carry out range checks of my own as soon as I get the chance.

I read dozens of feedbacks and reviews on these receivers used in combination with futaba fasst transmitters. Every one I read was positive, claiming they where reliable and gave excellent long range operation.
Futaba where too expensive and Orange where un-reliable ?

Iant90 wrote: Only had chance to try out one of them, it was easy to bind using my ESC/motor and battery as a power source.
Only two niggles -
1. The recievers numbered 1 to 7 but instructions don't tell you which is elevator, rudder etc
2. If I was flying with an IC set up I would need to use a seperate 4.8v battery again no identification which is the battery terminal ? Guessing its number 7.
Anyone got any advice
Regards Ian

FrSky only number 1 to 7 because within their transmitters you can assign anything to anything! Your receiver takes the first part of the received string and sends it to channel 1, the next to channel 2 etc. Be careful when connecting both ESC to channel 3 and a battery to 7, the two will 'fight' one another, you must disconnect the red lead in the ESC connector. Quite easy to do, just push the little tab down on the side of the plug and pull the connector out, put some tape around it for safety.

Thanks for the advice, I fitted an ESC to my Electra glider never had throttle control before just power on and off.
Decided as I was using Nimh 7.2 volt battery I would still keep the receiver battery (extra weight I know), the ESC gave option for Nimh or Lipo source via a jumper so set to the Nimh. Thought jumper configuration might turn off the BEC so decided to be on the safe side and retain control of rudder and elevator separately.
With the ESC connected to the receiver with seperate 4.8v battery and no power battery connected, the ESC bleeps. When I connect the power battery it goes to steady and stops I then get throttle control.
I assume the bleep is due to the receiver power supply and I need to disconnect the positive terminal from the ESC as you suggested.
If I was planning to fly an electric plane in fairly close proximity, I would probably rely on just the main battery and the BEC to give enough power to allow me to land. However, gliders can get a fair altitude don't fancy running out of power to the control surfaces half a mile up ? Hence a back up receiver battery.

Ian
If the ESC is set up correctly the LVC (low voltage cut off) circuit will cut power to the motor yet leave enough in the battery to run the rx and servos for a good few minutes. So the rule is - if the motor doesn't run when you open the throttle - get on and land right away!

You may even find the motor starts again after a while as the battery voltage recovers but don't be fooled it won't last, it really is time to land.

Heads up with LiPo it is not a good idea to run them down to LVC too often as it does them no good. The LVC should be considered as a safety feature of last resort.
It is a good idea to time each flight and then to check the state of the battery. If the no load voltage is down to 3.7 V (remember it would have been quite a bit lower when under load) then that flight duration is getting close to the limit for good battery life.

Fortunately I decided to use the Nimh as a source for the glider bit heavier but don't have to worry about the low voltage as per lipo battery.
Take your point regarding the motor shut off at low voltage but if it's way up in the clouds I won't know for sure. At least with a seperate rx battery it may be un necessary added weight but guarantees I can glide down safely.
That's why I would only use lipo batteries on a plane I can see that way I know when to land it til I get a good idea of flight times, don't have telemetry on my transmitter !

"High up in the clouds"
I trust that means your plane is not beyond LOS!

Not knowing where you are/intend flying, be aware that anywhere around Warrington, you are restricted to 400 agl by the CAA, because of the Manchester, Speke, and light aircraft corridor flight paths.

Thanks that's good to know, I had better head off to Rivington then if I want to fly my glider.
Or somewhere in the depths of beyond Wales or Scotland !
Mind you I can't fit planes and my wife in the car at same time, so maybe it's a bonus I can have a nice weekend away somewhere on my own in peace and quiet
:woohoo: