Brian Taylor Me109E
- Klipkopwildlife
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Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Klipkopwildlife
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The speed is reasonable (55mph) and the tip speed is good (400+mph)
Just look at the static thrust! It's a stump puller! Of course we'll have to change to a 100A ESC
Using 6S our current just goes through the roof. I'm going to suggest to Solo that we use a mix and match of what we already have.
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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Using just a motor change to up the Kv we have good speed, good power, excellent acceleration and better efficiency, and, let's face it, who's going to notice that the prop is slightly under size? If you're doing this for competition, do what the scale guys do, put the right size on for judging and then change on the way to the flight line!
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- Garry Pollard
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Garry
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6.1.1.15 Preparation for Flight
Between scale judging and flying, no parts of a model are to be removed, nor may anything other than a dummy pilot and an antenna be added externally to the model; propellers and droppable ordnance may be substituted (see below).
Additional air entries/exits are permitted provided they are covered by movable hatches for static judging; these hatches may be opened manually prior to flight, automatically in flight or by means of radio control.
Necessary repairs due to flight damage are permitted, but the maximum weight limit still applies and the appearance of the model in flight must not be unduly affected.
6.1.1.16 Dummy Pilot
If the pilot of a prototype is visible from the front or from the side during flight, a dummy pilot of scale size and shape shall be equally visible during flight in the model. If such a pilot is not fitted, the total flight score shall be reduced by 10%. The dummy pilot may be present during static judging but shall not be taken into account.
6.1.1.17 Propellers
A flying propeller and spinner of any form or diameter may be substituted for a scale propeller. The size, shape and colour of the spinner must not be changed.
Note: This relates only to powered propellers that were intended to propel the subject aircraft. If a model of a multi-engine aircraft uses non-powered (windmilling) propellers, these must not be changed between static and flying. Features such as, for example, the small generator propeller on the nose of an aircraft such as a Me163, must likewise not be changed for flying propellers. For rubber powered aircraft the removable nose block with thrust bearing may be considered as part of the flying propeller. The flight nose block must be similar in appearance to the static nose block and should be presented with the model for static judging
Metal-bladed flying propellers are forbidden.
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Now the bit about movable hatches is interesting, what this means is, to keep the scale look and profile you can have no extra holes (or lose points) but, you can have movable doors or hatches that can be opened for the flight. For instance for extra cooling for the motor, ESC or Lipo.
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- Garry Pollard
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However, thanks for the info, as was not quite sure what Andy's very good but involved answer meant. I appreciate he was quoting from the BMFA rules.
Garry
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- soloslogger
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keep going and i want to see it flying soon.
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- soloslogger
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I'll be posting more pics in the next couple of days, cus now I CAN
Question for you Andy, you said about taking some wood out the formers on the fus, others have expressed caution because it could weaken the strength of the fus, so I'm kinda in the middle, bit unsure where to go with this, :blink:
Mike
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- soloslogger
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Mike - Lightening formers: The strength of the fuselage (or any other similar) structure is in the surface skin. All the formers do is give the skin it's shape. In the limit, once the skin is in place, you should be able to remove all the formers (which is what we sometimes do on free flight models). However, if you squeeze such a structure, there's a possibility that you'll crush the skin which would be disastrous. So, we need a compromise. If you're after light weight, cut some holes in the formers. To retain strength, bridge the holes with some sticks (1/8 x 1/8 balsa for example).
I have to admit here that I've never built a large radio scale model, but I have built a lot of 'light' models, both small and large, and they do fly better. There's a lot of experience on this forum and it's unlikely that we'll all say the same thing. But it's good stuff. Heed all the advice you get then use it to make your decision. I don't believe you'll go too far wrong with whichever decision you make.
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