Soldering

Eric
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03 Jun 2019 21:10 #31 by Eric

Replied by Eric on topic Soldering

I didn't know you could weld carbon fibre! :woohoo:

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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paul d
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03 Jun 2019 21:31 #32 by paul d

Replied by paul d on topic Soldering

:lol: :lol: Luckily I never got that involved in laying up carbon, bloody horrible job, I was more involved in the engine, gearbox and suspension side of things, looks glamourouse (spelling?) on tv but was hard graft, had to give it up after 21 years and have a complete change...I also used to work (part time) at brooklands museum, mainly playing with there sopwith camel and the Wellington.

balsa is best.

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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one tenor
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johnpcalex@gmail.com

04 Jun 2019 07:11 #33 by one tenor

Replied by one tenor on topic Soldering

Alloy brazing rods in modelling/motoring press '58 about£ 2 for 3 dull looking cast sticks on a plastic faced card. An allbon Javelin with broken crankshaft bearing. A gas ring on Mam's cooker a brass (suede cleaning) brush and that Javelin is still running well today. Oh yes I almost forgot. A smear of Araldite to ensure a gas tight seal over the solder/braze Just a smear. More modern alloys at lower temps Mini gas blow lamp make it easier,

Anything will fly given enough power

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Klipkopwildlife
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I'm supposed to be retired!

28 Jan 2022 07:50 - 28 Jan 2022 16:59 #34 by Klipkopwildlife

Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic Soldering

Just a follow up, when soldering with old leaded or the awful new leadless solder I find the plastic of our modelling plugs and sockets tend to deform, the only way is to plug them together, clamp the pins of the one you're not soldering and solder the other. Then, just as important, wait for the whole thing to cool down.

Do it now, you may never get another chance

Last edit: 28 Jan 2022 16:59 by Klipkopwildlife.

Thanks: Flytilbroke

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THE BLACKBIRD
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28 Jan 2022 14:23 #35 by THE BLACKBIRD

Replied by THE BLACKBIRD on topic Soldering

Thats how i do it as well

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife, Flytilbroke

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Flytilbroke
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Not Tired, long retired "Bob"

28 Jan 2022 16:40 #36 by Flytilbroke

Replied by Flytilbroke on topic Soldering

Yep. learned that too.

Have a nice Day, unless I don't like you.

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Eric
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28 Jan 2022 17:19 #37 by Eric

Replied by Eric on topic Soldering

I've been doing that for ages! I have a little jig that holds small plugs and sockets, so they can't escape, and it has a small clamp on it, so if I'm soldering a Deans on, I put t'other half into the clamp, and it keeps everything straight.
I neither like nor trust those XT plugs and sockets, you can never tell if it is the pins that are tight, or just the plastic case. People have lost models because of that, a tight fitting case and a broken female receptacle in the thing. With a Deans, there is no case!

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Quorneng
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28 Jan 2022 21:21 #38 by Quorneng

Replied by Quorneng on topic Soldering

The original Deans body was made of a fibrous material that did not really melt, only charred. The more modern ones use a not very heat resisting plastic!

The best way I have found is to use a big iron (200W with a 4 oz (250g) copper bit. That only requires it to be dabbed on for the solder to flow minimising heat transfer elsewhere but it does take far longer for the iron to heat up than to solder the joint!

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Flytilbroke
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Not Tired, long retired "Bob"

29 Jan 2022 08:37 #39 by Flytilbroke

Replied by Flytilbroke on topic Soldering

I use a 100w iron for the same reason as Quorneng.

Have a nice Day, unless I don't like you.

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Klipkopwildlife
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29 Jan 2022 12:55 #40 by Klipkopwildlife

Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic Soldering

If you are comfortable with it, a larger soldering iron is better because the heat sink (the contact) doesn't draw down the temperature too far. With a small iron the heat goes off the boil and you have to keep the heat on the contact for much longer.

Do it now, you may never get another chance

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THE BLACKBIRD
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29 Jan 2022 16:42 #41 by THE BLACKBIRD

Replied by THE BLACKBIRD on topic Soldering

I have a soldering iron that has an adjustable heat setting but i always use it on its hottest setting of 500 deg, i think it is better to heat the part as quick as i can to save damage

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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Eric
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29 Jan 2022 17:30 #42 by Eric

Replied by Eric on topic Soldering

That's ok as far as it goes, BB, but with soldering - it is the mass of the bit that matters. A big fat bit holds the heat a lot longer than a little skinny one!

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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paul d
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29 Jan 2022 19:29 #43 by paul d

Replied by paul d on topic Soldering

...I really get myself a decent iron, my current one is frankly crap ( that's a technical term! )

balsa is best.

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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THE BLACKBIRD
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29 Jan 2022 23:37 #44 by THE BLACKBIRD

Replied by THE BLACKBIRD on topic Soldering

Never had a problem, well only when i picked it up by the wrong end, well tried to :S

Thanks: Eric, Klipkopwildlife

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Eric
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30 Jan 2022 09:24 #45 by Eric

Replied by Eric on topic Soldering

I've done that, too, BB - knocked the iron off the bench, and caught it by the hot end!
OUCH!

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!

Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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