JB Atoms

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30 Sep 2017 08:41 #1 by Klipkopwildlife
JB Atoms was created by Klipkopwildlife
I've delayed starting this thread since I was less than pleased with the outcome of the Indian thread, anyway, here goes.
John, (One Tenor) has sent me 2 JB Atoms for repair. Since I failed miserably to strip the complete one my first task was to clean them to my satisfaction. I tried heated paraffin, lacquer thinners, petrol, diesel, all to no avail! Then I tried long immersion in hot Antifreeze, after a few false starts, it works! But, warning, it neatly removes any anodising! Ask me how I know! The old, dry Castor oil which, it seems is harder than the aluminium, is turned into a soft rubbery compound which can be picked out with a plastic spudger.
One engine is missing its crankshaft, conrod and needle valve assembly. First of the jobs is to make a new crankshaft, after discussion John and I agreed to make it out of EN30B which is a chrome moly steel.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
Thanks: boz, Squirrelnet

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30 Sep 2017 08:59 #2 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic JB Atoms
Right, now I've found the pics I can start over! (of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most!)


Received two very dirty engines in a box.


The complete one is in the bath.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
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Thanks: boz

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30 Sep 2017 09:05 #3 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic JB Atoms
The eagle eyed may spot the fact that the casting in the area of the Needle valve assembly is damaged, I don't know what to do about that yet.


In order to strip I had to make a 'C' spanner, and even then I thought I was going to break something! To remove the back plate I had to put 2 screwdriver blades in the vice.




48hrs in hot (80oC) Antifreeze.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
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Thanks: Quorneng, boz, Squirrelnet

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30 Sep 2017 09:17 - 30 Sep 2017 09:17 #4 by Ex-Member
Replied by Ex-Member on topic JB Atoms
Wow Klippy, you do like your challenges, don't you!! ;) ;)

Anyway, good luck with the project, I'll follow it with interest. :cheer: :cheer:
Last edit: 30 Sep 2017 09:17 by Ex-Member.

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30 Sep 2017 09:31 #5 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic JB Atoms
Note the size of the crankshaft in comparison to the stroke, I like over engineering!
The piston gudgeon pin arrangement is interesting. The piston is threaded on the inside and a threaded collar containing the pin is screwed into it. Neat! Except that if the collar is anything other than very tight, wear will occur in the threaded area. I can't see any way of holding the collar to tighten it!
Of interest is that the crankshaft is 2 piece, the crank nose shaft is threaded into the crankshaft. This would shorten the required length of material per crankshaft at the expense of risking 'run out' at the propeller end. Both ends of this stud are threaded 2BA and are right handed. This could also be problematic since the crankshaft end would tend to screw out when starting.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
Thanks: Eric, Flytilbroke, boz, Squirrelnet

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30 Sep 2017 13:00 #6 by one tenor
Replied by one tenor on topic JB Atoms
Hi Klippy. First of all let me apologise for two things. One I'm sorry to send the engines in such a mucky state but I couldn't clean them on my lap. Second sorry for the struggle you've had to dismantle them. Now re the piston collar I unscrewed it by clamping a small jubilee type clip with a layer of rubber under it round the piston after heating a bit. I then squeezed the tips of a pair of pliers into the collar alongside the gudgeon pin .Very tight squeeze . Then using a round jawed vise grip round the clip and and a vise to hold the pliers handle gave it a pull . It didn't take an awful lot of power to crack the thread. I suggest using a thread locking compound of some sort on reassembly. I had forgotten about the threaded insert on the crankshaft since I lost the missing one's pieces a long time ago ,but did recall the thread size as being 2 BA. Talking of BA threads I've been trying to find some 5BA capheads screws Or one really to use as a comp screw for a DC Dart.Tried all the usual model fixing suppliers to no avail. Tried a local one man band engineering/tools supplier. No problem he said. Would a thousand be enough LOL. Ordered 10 price 90p and free post too P.S. I've never had any reports of either the piston collar or the C/shaft extension working loose I suppose the shaft and insert could be drilled through and pinned/riveted just aft .of the tapered area.The shaft is big enough I think. Cheers and thanks again Klip looking forward to next episode.

Anything will fly given enough power
Thanks: boz, Squirrelnet

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30 Sep 2017 18:00 #7 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic JB Atoms
No apologies necessary John, I'd rather see the engines 'warts and all'.
I'm not going to try and disconnect the working piston and rod, when I re-assemble the other one I'll cut a small screw driver slot in the rim.
Looking at the crankshaft I'm going to turn the new one in one piece, then it all going to be nice and true. I came across a few surprises as I was measuring and drawing. All the sizes are Metric! In addition the crankshaft (7mm dia) runs direct in the crankcase, no hint of any bushing. The big end is 4mm (a bit small) and the small end is also 4mm (a bit big!) The biggest surprise of all was the connecting rod, it's steel! So we have a steel big end running in a steel conrod and a steel gudgeon pin running in a steel conrod. I will certainly be making 2 Dural conrods to try and impart some longevity.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
Thanks: boz

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30 Sep 2017 19:26 - 30 Sep 2017 19:44 #8 by one tenor
Replied by one tenor on topic JB Atoms
OK Tony I see you have discovered the secret of the Atom. All steel running parts including the cylinder. This lead to prolonged running in times and the less than glowing reports from the reviewers. I like them very much. Even though not fully run in I've had some really good speeds from them. Hence the point about one hurting Dad's ears.
However I don't get the point about the Dural con rods opposed to the original steel for longevity.Can you clarify this point for me please. I enclose a report on the Atom by Ron Warring in Sceptre Flight. I think Chinn and Sparey did one each too.
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/J.B.%20Atom%20(2).html
Good idea re the nick in the piston rim if it's not too brittle.
P.S. Don't worry about the damage near the N.V.A. I can get some J.B. Weld Epoxy or similar or use some Alloy solder when I'm about again. Got last preop on Monday .Chest X-ray which they couldn't squeeze in last week. Fingers crossed.

Anything will fly given enough power
Last edit: 30 Sep 2017 19:44 by one tenor.
Thanks: boz

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30 Sep 2017 20:52 #9 by one tenor
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one tenor wrote: OK Tony I see you have discovered the secret of the Atom. All steel running parts including the cylinder. This lead to prolonged running in times and the less than glowing reports from the reviewers. I like them very much. Even though not fully run in I've had some really good speeds from them. Hence the point about one hurting Dad's ears.
However I don't get the point about the Dural con rods opposed to the original steel for longevity.Can you clarify this point for me please. I enclose a report on the Atom by Ron Warring in Sceptre Flight. I think Chinn and Sparey did one each too.
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/J.B.%20Atom%20(2).html
Good idea re the nick in the piston rim if it's not too brittle.


P.S. Don't worry about the damage near the N.V.A. I can get some J.B. Weld Epoxy or similar or use some Alloy solder when I'm about again. Got last preop on Monday .Chest X-ray which they couldn't squeeze in last week. Fingers crossed.


Btw this site may be of use or interest to you JO/T
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Index.html

Anything will fly given enough power
Thanks: boz

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01 Oct 2017 08:45 #10 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic JB Atoms

Klipkopwildlife wrote: All the sizes are Metric! In addition the crankshaft (7mm dia) runs direct in the crankcase, no hint of any bushing. The big end is 4mm (a bit small) and the small end is also 4mm (a bit big!) I will certainly be making 2 Dural conrods to try and impart some longevity.

Hmm, it's called 'foot n mouth' disease! That article really helps, and of course when I work the given sizes back I can see they are in fact Imperial.
Running 'hard' against 'hard' goes against everything I've ever seen or heard. Modern thinking with engines is certainly hard against soft.

Do it now, you may never get another chance
Thanks: boz

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01 Oct 2017 11:32 #11 by one tenor
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No FinM Tony I never thought about Imp V Metric sizes. Yep hard on hard is unusual but seems to have lasted OK on these two.I lost touch with my mate who had a matching pair so can't do a comparison. At least we have it with the crankshaft John

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Thanks: boz

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01 Oct 2017 17:05 #12 by boz
Replied by boz on topic JB Atoms
A very interesting thread, just wondering about the age of these engines?.
(Re your remark about your dad's hearing john).
Regarding the steel parts is it normal to have steel on steel? I thought the parts that suffered most wear would be softer metal so main parts would not require replacing, ie shells and crankshaft on car engines, is it not the same for these atoms? Boz :)

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01 Oct 2017 18:17 #13 by Mike Rolls
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The JB Atom was the subject of an engine test in the April 1956 Aeromodeller
Mike

The older I get, the better I was!
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02 Oct 2017 08:19 #14 by Doug
Replied by Doug on topic JB Atoms
I believe Mills engines used hardened pistons and cylinder, and because of this were virtually impossible to wear out. A modern example of this set up is the very high quality Peter Burford 0.3cc engine. This explanation on his web site states that a small variation in hardness is enough to prevent galling. See www.peterburford.com.au/construction/
Doug
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife, boz

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02 Oct 2017 08:45 #15 by one tenor
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Interesting Doug .Thanks for that ;)

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