JB Atoms
- Klipkopwildlife
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- I'm supposed to be retired!
John, (One Tenor) has sent me 2 JB Atoms for repair. Since I failed miserably to strip the complete one my first task was to clean them to my satisfaction. I tried heated paraffin, lacquer thinners, petrol, diesel, all to no avail! Then I tried long immersion in hot Antifreeze, after a few false starts, it works! But, warning, it neatly removes any anodising! Ask me how I know! The old, dry Castor oil which, it seems is harder than the aluminium, is turned into a soft rubbery compound which can be picked out with a plastic spudger.
One engine is missing its crankshaft, conrod and needle valve assembly. First of the jobs is to make a new crankshaft, after discussion John and I agreed to make it out of EN30B which is a chrome moly steel.
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Received two very dirty engines in a box.
The complete one is in the bath.
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- Klipkopwildlife
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In order to strip I had to make a 'C' spanner, and even then I thought I was going to break something! To remove the back plate I had to put 2 screwdriver blades in the vice.
48hrs in hot (80oC) Antifreeze.
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Anyway, good luck with the project, I'll follow it with interest.
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- Klipkopwildlife
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The piston gudgeon pin arrangement is interesting. The piston is threaded on the inside and a threaded collar containing the pin is screwed into it. Neat! Except that if the collar is anything other than very tight, wear will occur in the threaded area. I can't see any way of holding the collar to tighten it!
Of interest is that the crankshaft is 2 piece, the crank nose shaft is threaded into the crankshaft. This would shorten the required length of material per crankshaft at the expense of risking 'run out' at the propeller end. Both ends of this stud are threaded 2BA and are right handed. This could also be problematic since the crankshaft end would tend to screw out when starting.
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- one tenor
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- johnpcalex@gmail.com
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- Klipkopwildlife
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I'm not going to try and disconnect the working piston and rod, when I re-assemble the other one I'll cut a small screw driver slot in the rim.
Looking at the crankshaft I'm going to turn the new one in one piece, then it all going to be nice and true. I came across a few surprises as I was measuring and drawing. All the sizes are Metric! In addition the crankshaft (7mm dia) runs direct in the crankcase, no hint of any bushing. The big end is 4mm (a bit small) and the small end is also 4mm (a bit big!) The biggest surprise of all was the connecting rod, it's steel! So we have a steel big end running in a steel conrod and a steel gudgeon pin running in a steel conrod. I will certainly be making 2 Dural conrods to try and impart some longevity.
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- one tenor
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However I don't get the point about the Dural con rods opposed to the original steel for longevity.Can you clarify this point for me please. I enclose a report on the Atom by Ron Warring in Sceptre Flight. I think Chinn and Sparey did one each too.
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/J.B.%20Atom%20(2).html
Good idea re the nick in the piston rim if it's not too brittle.
P.S. Don't worry about the damage near the N.V.A. I can get some J.B. Weld Epoxy or similar or use some Alloy solder when I'm about again. Got last preop on Monday .Chest X-ray which they couldn't squeeze in last week. Fingers crossed.
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- one tenor
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one tenor wrote: OK Tony I see you have discovered the secret of the Atom. All steel running parts including the cylinder. This lead to prolonged running in times and the less than glowing reports from the reviewers. I like them very much. Even though not fully run in I've had some really good speeds from them. Hence the point about one hurting Dad's ears.
However I don't get the point about the Dural con rods opposed to the original steel for longevity.Can you clarify this point for me please. I enclose a report on the Atom by Ron Warring in Sceptre Flight. I think Chinn and Sparey did one each too.
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/J.B.%20Atom%20(2).html
Good idea re the nick in the piston rim if it's not too brittle.
P.S. Don't worry about the damage near the N.V.A. I can get some J.B. Weld Epoxy or similar or use some Alloy solder when I'm about again. Got last preop on Monday .Chest X-ray which they couldn't squeeze in last week. Fingers crossed.
Btw this site may be of use or interest to you JO/T
sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Index.html
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Hmm, it's called 'foot n mouth' disease! That article really helps, and of course when I work the given sizes back I can see they are in fact Imperial.Klipkopwildlife wrote: All the sizes are Metric! In addition the crankshaft (7mm dia) runs direct in the crankcase, no hint of any bushing. The big end is 4mm (a bit small) and the small end is also 4mm (a bit big!) I will certainly be making 2 Dural conrods to try and impart some longevity.
Running 'hard' against 'hard' goes against everything I've ever seen or heard. Modern thinking with engines is certainly hard against soft.
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- boz
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(Re your remark about your dad's hearing john).
Regarding the steel parts is it normal to have steel on steel? I thought the parts that suffered most wear would be softer metal so main parts would not require replacing, ie shells and crankshaft on car engines, is it not the same for these atoms? Boz
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- Mike Rolls
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- one tenor
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- johnpcalex@gmail.com
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