Soldering

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25 May 2019 13:53 #1 by Klipkopwildlife
Soldering was created by Klipkopwildlife
About 12months ago I bought a new temperature controlled soldering iron. The nice man in the shop threw in a small roll of solder coiled up in a plastic pot with the end poking out the top.Ever since I've been struggling with my soldering, I thought it was old age and eyesight. Today the solder ran out in the middle of a small job so I went and got the roll that I've had since God was a boy. What a difference, suddenly my soldering is perfect again and I don't battle with the solder blobbing on the tip! Could it be that these new 'lead free' solders are not fit for purpose?

Do it now, you may never get another chance

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25 May 2019 14:21 #2 by old fart
Replied by old fart on topic Soldering
Lead free solder needs more heat and a very aggressive flux, turn your iron up to between 350 - 400c.

There is nothing like a dream to create the future.

Electrickery is the work of the devil.
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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25 May 2019 14:38 #3 by THE BLACKBIRD
Replied by THE BLACKBIRD on topic Soldering
I always use a solder that has the flux in it and a 100W iron never had a problem
Even soldering servo wire I use the 100w iron, makes for a quick heat up without melting the covering
Now I have got into the silver soldering it has opened up a new life with the things you can do
And contrary to.poplar believe it's not hard to do

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25 May 2019 15:32 - 25 May 2019 15:35 #4 by supertigrefan
Replied by supertigrefan on topic Soldering
Those are all good tips.

I've been using rosin cored, lead free and it's fine as long as it's heated well and the joint is clean, leaded solder is easier to use as it's more forgiving, Bakers fluid is good for preparing heavy wire like U/C's but is highly corrosive so needs to be neutralised and washed away afterwards, I use rosin as flux most of the time, the stuff in the tin that comes as a solid block then crush what I need and add Acetone to liquify it.

Silver solder is excellent and opens up another world, I actually find it easier than soft soldering and it's claimed to be near to a weld in strength, the game changer however is Aluminium brazing....Wow! what a revelation, it takes a bit of practice but is well worth it, IT IS as strong as a a TIG weld and as a bonus, has also saved me a few bob with repairs to the air con on the car....it's a no-lose situation.

Stay low, Move fast, Trust no-one....
Last edit: 25 May 2019 15:35 by supertigrefan. Reason: Spelling
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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25 May 2019 16:39 #5 by Ralpharr2001
Replied by Ralpharr2001 on topic Soldering
What rods did you use for the aluminium brazing ST? I've seen so many on different ones advertised but seems to good to be true. One I saw, you had to tin the surfaces then while molten rub the surface with a stainless steel rod then bring the two parts together. Really fiddly.

I'm currently unsupervised. I know it freaks me out as well, but the possibilities are endless!!
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25 May 2019 17:52 - 25 May 2019 18:01 #6 by supertigrefan
Replied by supertigrefan on topic Soldering
I use the rods from the same place as I get my silver solder kits:

Ablemablecrafts on EBay

Sorry, tried posting a link but just kept getting an error message.

Stay low, Move fast, Trust no-one....
Last edit: 25 May 2019 18:01 by supertigrefan. Reason: Link not working
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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25 May 2019 18:53 #7 by one tenor
Replied by one tenor on topic Soldering
I find the Modern solder needs a lot more heat and fiercer flux too. One thing I do (D ID) before my fall. was to keep any solder from anything Older I stripped. I melted it down and poured it into the grooves of some alloy step treads I have. Makes nice handy solder strips about a foot long,,,,,,Regards John.

P.S.look for P.M.

Anything will fly given enough power
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25 May 2019 20:21 - 26 May 2019 10:38 #8 by supertigrefan
Replied by supertigrefan on topic Soldering
Hope this link works:
Ebay solder rods

Edit- Looks like it hasn't, how do I post Ebay links?
In your browser click on your address line until it goes blue, then right click on it and select copy. Above your post there's a line of Gui's, 8 from the right is a chain link, left click on it and 2 boxes will come up, right click on the left one and select Paste. Left click on the right one and type in what you want the link to say. Make sure your cursor is in the right place and click add. This is the method I've found works.

Stay low, Move fast, Trust no-one....
Last edit: 26 May 2019 10:38 by Klipkopwildlife. Reason: Link not working
Thanks: Flytilbroke, Ralpharr2001

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25 May 2019 21:22 #9 by THE BLACKBIRD
Replied by THE BLACKBIRD on topic Soldering
I found it and ordered some to take back home to Cyprus with me
Thanks for the heads up STF
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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26 May 2019 10:39 - 26 May 2019 10:43 #10 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic Soldering
Just ordered some myself!
Many thanks to all who gave the excellent advice. My temperature controlled iron is only 37watts so I think I'll have to go back to my trusty old Weller, not adjustable except by changing the tip. All the years I've used a #7, looks like I'll have to change to a #8, if I can find it!

Do it now, you may never get another chance
Last edit: 26 May 2019 10:43 by Klipkopwildlife.

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26 May 2019 11:27 #11 by Eric
Replied by Eric on topic Soldering
25 watts is plenty for most electronic soldering - a 1mm or smaller tip if you really must use surface-mount stuff.
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Modern rubbish lead-free solder is a nightmare to use, as stated, the iron needs to be a lot hotter, and you need a lot more flux, and still get grotty-looking joints.
Also, if a joint (or iron!) has been used/done with regular leaded solder, the lead-free will not mix with it, but just puddles on top. You have to clean the surface down to original metal, before you stand a chance.
Also - obviously - as you are running the iron hotter, the tips don't last as long, either.
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The stuff was developed for the commercial industry, using dipped bath techniques, and they now get a lot of rejects, for some strange reason! The idea was to remove the possibility of lead poisoning from the fumes. (EU again??)
Regular tin/lead multicore solder is easily obtained for the hobbyist, even HobbyKing are selling it now, but look on e-bay, etc, for better prices.

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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26 May 2019 14:36 #12 by supertigrefan
Replied by supertigrefan on topic Soldering
My tip for using Alu rods is make a small hearth from a breeze block to heat the workpiece in, Aluminium heats quickly but also cools quickly so to keep the piece evenly heated and without trying to blast it in one place to heat it (which will quicky reduce it to a puddle) place it in the hearth, keep the heat moving and use a decent torch such as the Gaz or plumbers type blowtorch, the trick is in the heat! Despite what the instructions say I've found it best to use a wire brush to prep the join and to keep it scrupulously clean.

Any questions, please ask.

Stay low, Move fast, Trust no-one....
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife, THE BLACKBIRD

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26 May 2019 16:20 #13 by crash happy
Replied by crash happy on topic Soldering
Regular tin/lead multicore solder is easily obtained for the hobbyist, even HobbyKing are selling it now, but look on e-bay, etc, for better prices.

That's worth knowing, thanks.
I still have some of my fathers left from his amateur radio days. Best stuff iv'e ever used but it wont last forever!
Thanks: Klipkopwildlife

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26 May 2019 16:36 #14 by Eric
Replied by Eric on topic Soldering
Hi Crash - I'm also a licensed radio ham! M0HFF.

if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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27 May 2019 11:06 #15 by Klipkopwildlife
Replied by Klipkopwildlife on topic Soldering
Thanks guys, I've taken a step back and will buy some proper stuff from Ebay for stock.

Do it now, you may never get another chance

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