Soldering

I have got my alloy soldering sticks I'm looking forward to having a go with it
All i nead now is a flight home but i have been told I cannot fly after an opp for several weeks,.Is that correct
I was on the point of booking my flight 4 days after the op

BB
I suspect it is an airline restriction just in case there is a problem whilst you are in the air.

Of course you could always arrange a special 'medical' charter flight with a doctor present but I suspect it would cost a lot of zeros!

Hi Klippy it's only s small op Now days, out the same day
Hmmm what if I ask for wheel chair assistance
Crist I need to get home,
Seem to have been here forever and my daughter in law has no more jobs for me to do painted everything in and out the house including the shed
And I hate painting
Sending me crazy doing nothing

I have taken this way of topic

Sorry

THE BLACKBIRD wrote: I have taken this way of topic

Sorry

I think the thread has already dealt with the original question, but it's a handy subject to keep going.
I used to repair electronic equipment for a living so I've done a lot of soldering in my time.
It shocks me the number of people who are scared of soldering and say they're no good at it, so there's a couple of tips I'd like to pass on.
Firstly the iron. Buy an iron that is the right power for the job. A typical 30 Watt Weller may be good for soldering battery cables, but it will wreck a circuit board if left in contact for more than a second or two. These 70 / 100 Watt soldering guns (the ones with the trigger) are something I hate. They may have a good heat capacity, so will heat a large object, but they seem to take ages to get to the correct temperature and the temptation is to use them as soon as they melt the solder, you need to be patient and let them get really Hot!!!
Most of the work I do is on very small jobs, they need a small, very hot iron, they only have to come into contact with the joint for a fraction of a second, they do the job without overheating the component.
Avoid irons that have a plain copper bit, these corrode into a disfigured shape in very little time, especially if left on for long periods. My iron is often left on all day (and night when I forget it ) so I use a 17 Watt or 25 Watt Antex iron with a plated bit. These can be left on all day without corroding, but you must never clean them with anything abrasive, no files or sandpaper, just a wipe with a damp cloth or sponge. The 17 Watt iron seems to get hotter than the 25 Watt one and is great for really small tasks.
Our forum builder, my son Mikey Admin, came to me a few days ago with his big telly. it had an intermittent fault and kept shutting down after a few seconds / minutes, ...... but sometimes would stay on for hours. I soon tracked down the culprit to a dry joint on the Power Supply Unit.
He decide to take a picture of it to show his wife Amy, luckily I can now post it here.
This is the sort of job I do most of the time. For the inexperienced, the dry joint is the one with a tiny circular crack around the component leg. The cure is to use a de-solder pump to clean away the old solder and a simple 1/2 second touch with my Antex and some new solder.
Let's see if this thread goes anywhere, if you have any soldering questions or problems post them here and let's see if we can sort them out.
Here's the simple faulty joint that nearly made Mike spend several hundred quid on a new telly.

Hi Pol nice to see you posting
How you doing, we never did get to meet at Bebington
How about silver soldering that was always something that I thought I could not do
Until I tried it

THE BLACKBIRD wrote: How about silver soldering that was always something that I thought I could not do
Until I tried it

That's something I've only tried once Tony. Many years ago I bought an old Tektronix oscilloscope that needed fixing. It was a big bugger and apparently very expensive in its day..... something like $25,000. It had a long row of joints set in what looked like a ceramic compound, and next to it was a little reel of silver solder and a warning label about not using Tin / Lead solder. ... That's the only piece of electronic equipment I'd ever seen with silver solder.
They may use silver solder on circuit boards now, but I've never had any trouble fixing them with good old fashioned solder.

Pol.

I only tried it on my Buck Jungmiesters undercarriage
Never thought I would be able to to it
But it was so easy and now I make tools and other things
Very useful

I was about to suggest that one of us with the knowledge/ability should run a bit of a thread on soldering /brazing. Heck it almost happened spontaneously with Boz's Car.( A35 rebuild/repair) Either in one lump or a number of bites. I have done some of all types in my work but don't profess to be an expert but could offer hints and tips. What does everyone think. My literary skills may not be up to much but I could give it a go. Much of the detail is EXACTLY the same for all types.
Solder-up dept*** One Tenor.
OR>P. M. me with your queries to save boring the A*S of everyone else

I think that's a good idea John we all learn every day hopefully

OK! any volunteers or is it down to me? If I do do this and I make a bit of a c^^k up please don't shout too hard; Cause in words of a certain big fluffy green baby Vent bird (Orville) I will Cwy. I will I will cwy. So what's the answer? Do I give it a try Or leave it to someone else. I can't illustrate does that matter? No working camera right now. Do we need to vote? Or blimey do we need to vote on the need to vote.? LOL

OT, you've got the job, congratulations!!! start at once?
For what it's worth I can weld, only arc and mig although I did have a little go at tig thanks to a kind fabricator when I was mucking about with F1 cars ( only lasted 21 years!!!).