A nice sized Bristol Beaufighter

When you have a bad day, well im having a super bad one,

Oh heck.

The landing light i ordered turned up so around 2am i went to the shed and fit it 
 
 
I spent 11 hours yesterday fitting the aileron and making the 2 flaps and fitting them, with the servos 
 
Today i was going to do the other wing as i had already a while ago done the aileron and fit one of the flaps so just needed to hinge and connect to the servo, only to find that the flaps was for the other wing     that i spent all day yesterday making new flaps for
I was so pissed off that i decided the wing was not good enough on the trailing edge so i took my frustration out on it and ripped all the rear of the wing off and did it all again
 
And started 2 new flaps
 
Much happier with the wing now

This dammed plan   built everything to the plan and the rudder is 2mm short to the bottom of the fuselage
 
   

I would like to have 3 bladed props on this if i can, anyone have any idea of the size these motors will want

As a start-point, put the recommended two-blader on,and see what power it is drawing at full throttle, via your Wattmeter, then try the three-blader that is maybe 3cm smaller in diameter, but the same pitch, and see how the power draw compares.
If it is higher, reduce the diameter of the prop some more.

Thought i would make a rig to test the motor ESC on, not getting on to well as you have to calibrate the radio to the ESC, with it producing bleeps, only i cannot hear the bleeding bleeps   iv tried loads of times to do it but nothing works
 
Sometimes i hate this hobby

Check on the other models you have in the TX and see if the throttle channel is normal or reversed, then make this one the same. As you know, I struggled with that TX, I think it's unnecessarily complex.

BB
Remember you can run an ESC using just a servo tester so avoiding the radio altogether. Simple, I do it regularly to test a motor before installation.
 
The knob on the  servo tester sends a full min to max range signal so it will always run an ESC. 
Of course you will have to calibrate the ESC with the radio before you actually fly.

You need to plug a battery into the deans, of course, or the speed controller won't 'wake up'!

Of course!
I was only showing the servo tester to ESC connection.

I sorted the ESC problem, simple really i just had to listen more closely 
When the Tx said DISHARMED   
The step into the shed will make a good lipo charging place i think
 

The ESC dont seem to like the setup, it gets to half throttle and cuts out, i took a pic of the faul finding
 
according to the instructions its the thermal cut out thats doing it, but its only a 3s lipo and it rated up to 8 
The original model had 2 pushrods to the elevators because of the dihedral on the tailplane so iv come up with something else
 
A bit of silver soldering
 
 
 
The attached a 3mm carbon tube pushrod to the servo
 

You've put the brass? torque rods on back to front!
Seriously - the two tubes will be very weak at the 90' bends, and you have no adjustment for surface travel, other than at the servo end.
-
And, regarding the motors cutting out, do you have a Wattmeter in line, to see how much power they are drawing? Without that, you are just guessing. You cannot set up an electric power pack 'by ear', unlike an i/c engine.
Remember, the speed controller HAS to be able to deliver more power than the motor wants, or it overheats.
Disregarding the weight and bulk of the speed controller, it HAS to be bigger than the motor can demand at full power - the bigger the better. It doesn't matter if it is TOO big, as the motor will only take as much power as it needs to reach it's designed rpm's. (the kV on the label - rpm's per volt)
So  if you have a 50 amp motor, and a 100 amp controller, everything is happy - - but turn it around and have a 100 amp motor, if the controller can only deliver 50, it will fry itself.

The motor is a 5050 with a Kv of 515 and the ESC is 120A continuous 150A bursts and the prop was a wooden 16x 8
But it shut down as soon as the throttle reached halfway straight from stop, so it was still cold and only on a 3s lipo
Just getting a bleep bleep     bleep bleep     bleep bleep  which according to the fault finder means the thermal cut out activated