Park flier electric project, motor spec ?

Since my last post I've been re-modelling my project to reduce the weight without impacting the structural integrity, going well on the fuselage. Still need to work on the foam veneered wings and rebuild the tail section the original was badly warped. Plus come up with a much better design with weight reduction.
Having given thought to the previous comments regarding the 1450kv motor I bought. I decided to scale down slightly and bought a Sunny sky 1250kv x2216 motor combined with a Hobby wing 40amp Sky Walker ESC. The specification with this ESC motor combination suggests I can use an 8X6e prop with a 3s lipo pack without burning out either the motor or ESC.
I would appreciate your views on my selection, the 1450kv suggested it might be a little to rapid for what I wanted to do with it. I was hoping the 1250kv with larger prop would allow take off from the ground then once in the air I could throttle back for a more relaxed flight with more air time ?

Ian
It still going to depend on just how much your 'weight reduction' achieves.

According to the spec the Sunny sky 1250kv x2216 would be quite happy turning a 9x6 and at full throttle would generate a good 220W drawing about 21A on a 3s.

There is no harm in having more prop and thrust than you actually need as electric is so easily and efficiently throttled, indeed a 9x6 throttled back a bit more is actually more efficient than a 8x6 set to achieve the same flight performance with potential benefit to the flight time.

Great news thanks I will buy a 9x6, it gives me chance to modify the undercarriage in advance to give sufficient ground clearance.
I am expecting around the 2lb weight all in after my weight reductions so assuming as a rule of thumb 1 lb per 100 watts of power I should be in the right ball park.
I was considering buying a cheap set of scales and a watt meter. So I could measure amps, watts and thrust see what difference prop sizes make in comparison, it will always come in handy for my future electric projects.
I will have to give it a couple of months though, my wife has been very understanding over my recent excessive spending on RC gear, but the edge of her mouth is starting to curl over some recent purchases so I had better cut back for a while.
Motor and ESC are coming from China so wont arrive till late March beginning of April anyway. Gives me time to finish the weight reductions, fit the servos and linkages etc and get it covered.
As usual thanks for the advice.

I decided to rebuild the tail section as the original was badly warped and beyond salvaging. Rather than drive miles to the nearest model shop, I went to Hobby Craft at a local retail park in Warrington. All I needed was one sheet of 1/8" x 4" wide it cost me £4.50 for one sheet, can't get over how expensive it was.
If I had driven to a model shop probably would have cost me less for the balsa but more in petrol so no real gain there.
Realise that's why modellers are changing over to foam these days it's cheaper. Even buying on line you have to add postage which makes it expensive.
Next time I will wait until I need to buy my balsa in bulk and make my journey worth while.
Anyone else found the cost of balsa extortionate?

I always did my 'model shopping' at the shows, I would buy about £100 worth of assorted balsa + other things.

Unfortunately I have only just got back into hobby so not been to any shows in a long time, plus not bought any balsa in a long time either so didn't appreciate how much it had gone up since I last bought some.
I have a couple of plans I have been considering for the future, makes sense to plan ahead and buy in bulk, rather than one model at a time.
At least I have all the radio gear now so don't have to spend money on that side, just replacement batteries.
I was planning to build and fly more electric models, but think I might be better utilising some of my IC engines instead.

That has to be your decision - but - have you checked the price of a gallon of glow-fuel? I think it's around £25, now!

I already have plenty of 2 stroke synthetic which I use for my chain saw. Castor works out around £6 for 600ml and I can buy 5 litres of methanol for around £15.
Okay that excludes nitro but I can run my engines on an 80/20 mix and tweak the throttle. May not be quite as easy to start as with nitro added but it works. Plus plenty of spare meths the soak and clean my engines before I strip them for an overhaul too.
I appreciate the simplicity, convenience and cleanliness of electric, but I have a couple of models ie 4 channel trainer and my Extra 300 which I plan to keep as IC motors call me nostalgic but I sort of miss the smell and noise.

I HATE castor oil, I only use synthetic lube.

Not a big fan of castor oil either, but for engine longevity best to use small quantity mixed with synthetic 3:5 ratio.

You can buy 20 litres of Methanol for less than £30 as can be seen here. Maybe even less somewhere further down the page but You can look for yourselves here
www.google.com/search?q=buy+methanol+uk&...ceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Castor oil here: www.google.com/search?q=buy+castor+oil+u...ceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Works out a lot cheaper to make your own but I think with the price of ether now it's cheaper to buy ready mixed diesel. I may be wrong though LOL

Castor oil makes good glue!

Be aware that medicinal castor oil is useless as an engine lubricant.

It cleans out your 'pipes', though! [badass]

AA bakers grade Castor or first pressed virgin would be okay, however
I finally got around to taking my Enya 40 super sport out of my trainer last night. Didn't appreciate how bad everything was coated in castor oil ! The engine is actually seized, the engine bay will need rebuilding and most of the aircraft will need re-covering.
Maybe its the incentive I needed to move away from IC power.