Where to fly ?

Neddy wrote: Don’t be put off with the idea of radio. Quite a few hardened FF people are moving over! We call it radio assist or radio trim. Full house is a bit blasphemous though.

I have a single channel FF model (rudder only) 40ins span diesel powered that spends most of its time flying free and simply receives a nudge now and again from me via the TX just to keep it in the field so to speak. So the amount you interfere using radio is almost entirely up to you. By the way you also have an effective D/T - full rudder - if needed.

Rubber powered models are also now using radio - have a look at this chap flying in the middle of Manhattan!

domoremaths. On you Tube!

So radio will in fact open up areas on which to fly I find. The radio gear in my rubber model cost less than £15 and weighs less than 10gms including battery.

Have fun.

That's good advice Neddy, thanks for posting.

I believe that assisted free flight is the way to go for free flight models as it's the only effective way of keeping the models within our rapidly shrinking flying areas. Several of us in the Free Flight Scale field are currently using radio in our Free Flight models for initial trimming. The radio is inhibited or removed for Free Flight Competition. Accordingly, the BMFA Scale Committee are currently considering allowing Radio DT in BMFA Free Flight Scale Competition next year for the reasons stated above. There'll be no difference to the competition rules except that the flight will be considered terminated and marking will cease when any radio DT, or other function, is initiated.

On the subject of cleaning engines, I've found that penetrating oil was good for all of my gummed up engines. Following that, a ctripdown, good clean and scrub with detergent, followed by drying a re-lubricating had them looking like new.

That's very true Andy I've been preparing for my getting on my feet and have bought a few mini Rx s Some are very light and even have no casing.Up to now they are all 6 ch and about as big as a 50p Singles and twos should be even smaller. Some bargains on Bang Good and Gear Best .Re ungumming motors .What you say is right as a general rule but sometimes there are exceptions For example my Atoms Tony ( Klippy) is working on were REALLY stuck up And he had to resort to the ethylene glycol treatment . If penetrating oil hasn't worked for me I got to the thinners/ Acetone / Amyl Acetate route. Amyl Acetate smells like pear drops and is more acceptable if working indoors.Anyway good luck

Re ungumming the motor I've taken the rather unorthodox step of reading the manual :S OS suggest soaking in paraffin. So I've currently got it soaking overnight having warmed it on top of the stove in a water bath (to prevent it getting too hot and also to avoid any fire risk). Hopefully I'll have a freed up and clean motor in the morning.

That is a good place to start and a good safe method too.I recall a fluid years ago made with paraffin/ pure turpentine and graphite Worked a treat but can't recall the name though. When I worked in a chemical works we used a clear red fluid with a sharp smell. I wish I could get some now. If you can imagine the rust and corrosion caused on steel from a mix of water and an acid powder. \\\\\\\well this fluid was the charm. Anyway one of the methods mentioned should work. Even if you have to resort to the blow torch to free it off . Good luck. John O/T

this is another try to post this message ( no 4 ) Yes that is a good starting place and a good safe method too. I recall a fluid made with Real turpentine /paraffin and graphite it worked well but not as well the clear red fluid with a sharp smell that we used in a chemical works./ Water and an acid in powder form caused terrible corrosion but that red stuff was the charm. I wish I could get some now .They wouldn't tell me what was in it :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: Anyway one of the methods should work for you.Even if you need to resort to the oven or blow torch Good luck. John O/T

The paraffin worked nicely

Good