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Winter build
- crash happy
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- Klipkopwildlife
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- I'm supposed to be retired!
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Eric
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Eric
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It's pre-fitted with plastic/nylon tubes for the push-rods for the back end flappy bits, and the rods are in the box with a Z bend at one end already.
No sign of where they emerge at the back, though, so shove a rod down, and look for the bulge.
Found the one for the rudder, Elevator???? The rod went so far, then jammed. No cut-out on either side under the tailplane. Found that the extreme rear of the fuz is open, just filmed over, so cut that out (for ventilation anyway!) No rod. Can't see any guide tubes down the hole.
Pulled the rod back out, and hammered a chisel-end onto it, then shoved it back again to the jam, then 'screwed' it in. After some twisting and shoving, it punched out through the fuz side - it looks like they forgot to cut a slot!
Fin has an extra-long rudder post that goes through a rectangular hole in the t/plane, and into the fuz. Tried it for size, nice fit, the t/plane fits flat to the fuz top, but the fin doesn't fit flat.
I've got to decide whether to trim a bit off, or make a scrap-wood fillet!
OK, I'll fit all the hinges while I think about it - not the silly plastic mica things, real hinges with pins. One slight problem, my cyano has decided to glue itself to the inside of the bottle!
OK, I'll fit a motor, then I can finish off the front - but
All my smaller motors are 35 x (something length) and the cut hole in the block is - you've guessed it 35mm, so the bell can't spin, and there's nowhere for the wires either.
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OK, kill three birds with one stone - Hobbyking, cyano bottle - in stock in the UK, found a 30 x 35 1350 Kv 3/4 cell motor - in China. 3sx2200 lipos - out of stock everywhere!
Settle for glue in a couple of days - motor when it gets here on the slow-boat.
Paypal -
the rest of this was in another post!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- paul d
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balsa is best.
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- paul d
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Thanks, Paul, - there's no rush for the lipo's, as I'm just stocking up, I have three or four.
They're possibly for the new model, as I don't yet know whether it needs 18's or 22's. (I have loads of 18's.)
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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Can I now present to you the Chinese model-kit torture -
Putting the aileron servo's in - I find that the provided aperture is 1 millimeter shallower than a Hitec ultra-slim wing servo on the provided - glued-in blocks.
So now I've got to take them out again, and sand a gnat's thingy off the blocks!
Oh Joy!
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As an aside, I've almost straightened out the nose of the TL 2000, and now I've stuck the motor mounting block back on. The fuz sides are still a bit ripply, but no more steaming will help, I've steamed the kitchen to death!
What will the thrust-line be like? Will the mount stay stuck? We'll have to wait and see!
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- paul d
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The other change is to the sheeting, plan calls for 1/16" sheet to be attached from the front spar and ending in a lap joint on the leading edge, in the interests of weight saving I've substituted 1/32" sheet and rather than end up ON the leading edge I've built it up so the sheet ends in a butt joint flush with the L/E. The design of the tail is incredibly stiff without sheeting so I've not lost any structural integrity but saved ( a little) weight.
next job is to sort out the electrical witchcraft installation while I can still get to it.
balsa is best.
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- THE BLACKBIRD
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If you can get it in, it can carry it! (the full-size, that is!)
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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