Multiplex Fun Cub

I tried painting my Fox with Poly C, to hopefully keep the white white, and to give it a bit of knock resistance.
It doesn't work, Elapor is very slightly oily, and the poly tends to orange-peel, or blob, and runs away from the surface.
Eventually, after persisting, I got it to cover, but even then, it doesn't take much to make it peel off, once dry. It flakes off like dead skin sloughing.
The Humbrol fluorescent orange acrylic paint does the same thing.
The Dimona is the same stuff, with the same problem!

I've bought a new Funcub kit from Tower Hobbies, it will only be in stock from the end of the month. I also bought a selection of 13" props, also out of stock at the time of order. They have now been sent to me, INDIVIDUALLY! With a separate carriage charge for each. The whole order was placed in the same Cart why couldn't they just drop them in the Funcub box!

This is the new style motor mount on the new Funcub.

This time around I didn't bother to rub down all the little pimples and flash on the wings or airframe.


Ready to maiden

Swap your hard plastic wheels for these squishy ones - they'll last longer, too -
hobbyking.com/en_us/rubber-foam-version-...with-silver-hub.html

The Beard wrote: Whats the advantage of the motor mount klippy it looks similar .I felt with my Fun cub was over time the fuselage lost rigidity and the mount vibrated through the fuselage.I even tried a wooden kit you could buy to help strengthen the motor mount but that didn't last long either

Stephen, the new style motor mount is a thick aluminium plate where the original was plastic.
The maiden happened this morning, it was a great success. I was surprised at how slowly she flies, obviously the old one must have got very heavy over time. This new one is badly affected by any kind of turbulence and I have to reduce the amount of down thrust. I dialled in the recommended amount but I don't like the amount of 'drop' when you whack the throttle open!

one tenor wrote: What's securing the plate Tony? It looks as though it's just pushed into place?

Pic in post #186, the plate is just pushed in place for the photograph. There are 2 bearers glued into the inside of the fuselage that run back to the cockpit. If you study the plate you can see where 2 securing screws (1 each side) hold the plate to the bearers. The grub screws push on the bearers and allow you to adjust side and down thrust.
On the original Cubs the plate was plastic and would deform quite easily.

Eric, I'm very careful about CoG (think OCD) Multiplex recommend 80mm of 230mm, that's 34.8%, but say that 10mm either way won't matter. On the old one I had to cut out the back of the battery bay and the fuselage, even then I could never get the CoG further than 72mm.
On this one knowing that this might be the case I cut out the back of the battery bay before I glued the fuselage halves together, sure enough I had to push the battery back into the cut recess in order to get the required CoG.

Interesting. On the Durafly Tundra, which is virtually the same aircraft, I've got the 3S2200 lipo shoved right hard up against the motor firewall, to get the CG something near where the destructions say.
And as I put in an earlier post on this thing, on one occasion, the battery escaped the clutches of the velcro strap, and ended up rattling around loose inside the the large hole at the front of the fuz, while I was aerobatting the model, and it didn't seem to make a blind bit of difference to the handling!
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I can't recall if I put, when I first described it - that the wing servos had the plugs pre-fitted, so when the wing was pushed into place, the socket auto-connected. I discovered while flying it yesterday, that the left plug wasn't fully connected, so under flight loads, it was unplugging. I only noticed when I pulled flaps in a tight loop, just for fun - to see what would happen! - and the resulting gyration with one flap up and one fully down was - shall we say - interesting!
Needless to say, a small mod will be performed, and a pair of Y leads installed!