Vintage Model Co Se5a
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Septic wrote:
......A question for Andy if he is about, I have "cracked" the fuselage just behind F6 as the instructions say. They do not mention doing anything to that crack? I have worked some balsa cement into the crack with my finger, does that seem about right?......
Yep, that's what I do, but while t's drying, make sure that the fuselage is jigged the way you want it so that the cement skin doesn't pull it out of shape.
If you really want to make a smooth job of it, Deluxe Materials Lightweight Filler is perfect for the job. As its name suggests, it's extremely light and it sands well too. It's not a 'structural' filler, though, so the model needs to be sounds before you start filling bits.
www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/search?cont...+lite&submit_search=
While I'm at it, if you have any small dents in the balsa, rather than filling, just flood them with a bit of water (I rub a bit of saliva into the area) and in most cases, the dent will disappear as the water dries off. If it doesn't, try again, then use filler if still required. Try it on a bit of scrap balsa and you'll see what I mean.
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I try not to use filler, but when I do I use some very light stuff, Red Devil One Time is the name
lifting dents with water is an old trick but very useful, I must confess to using that trick too
I have finished the rest of the bulkheads and stringers, just about to think about the upper decking. The plans say paper or 1/32 balsa. I have never used paper so am drawn to using thin balsa, using the paper as templates. What does the "Dark Lord" suggest ?
Cheers
Danny
tap - tap.......rivet
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On my VMC Me109, I used 100gsm paper with tissue pre-stuck on using a glue stick as suggested in the instructions. Using the glue stick to attach the paper panels to the model didn't work too well though, I had better luck with tissue paste. However, I think the overall effect worked quite well:
On the other hand, I normally use light balsa sheet. Here's an example with the BE2C I did for AeroModeller at the end of 2014. I make up a paper pattern then transfer it to balsa. It's stuck on using Aliphatic resin:
If I ever use paper, I normally use airmail weight, which is around 35gsm. I tape it to a board, water shrink it, then dope it. It gives a very good simulation of weathered plywood. Here's an example stuck to the side of my Gloucester Gannet. I use either tissue paste (as here) or photo mount to fix it to the airframe. The tissue paste causes wrinkles, but they disappear when it dries:
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- Septic
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I have a little while to think it over while I do a few other small tasks.
The jig for the cabane struts fits an absolute treat
The instructions suggest fitting the cabanes next, but I am wondering if the balsa/paper would be easier now......
Cheers
Danny
****Just realised the jig wont fit if the paper/balsa skins are fitted DOH! ****
tap - tap.......rivet
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Anyway couldn't resist the all time modellers favorite pastime, dry assembly over a cup of tea and a rich tea biccy
Cheers
Danny
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must be something in the Free Flight malarkey.
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- Septic
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tap - tap.......rivet
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Nicely done Septic!
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I am mildly concened that the Superphatic is going to show through
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Which rubber model are you going to do?
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