Vintage Model Co Se5a

I used tissue paste to stick the paper markings on my VMC Me109 Septic. It wrinkled like crazy when they were wet, but they dried just fine. If you contact Kev at SAMS or John at Deluxe Materials, I'm sure they could get some to you by return of post.

Alternatively, you are 'allowed' to spray paint markings in Kit Scale - see the Rules and Judges guide. In the limit, you can even spray paint the whole model if you want to, but in that case you would be penalised by, I think, 5 marks (see page 90 in the Scale Rules).

Rubber? I would put in one loop slightly longer than the distance between the hooks. That'll give you enough for some trimming flights outside to get the C of G, down/sidethrust and warps right for stable flight, preferably in a left turn. If you use longer rubber, it'll take you too long to wind it between test flights, any shorter and you won't be able to get it into the bus far enough to hook it round the rear peg. We can sort out the correct size and length of rubber for the competition on Sunday morning - I'll have several sizes with me and a rubber stripper if we need an intermediate size. I'll also have lube, stooge and a winder. Quantity of rubber will not be a problem, either.

You'll get four chances to fly in front of the judges over the day, only the best score will be counted, so we'll be able to do some trimming early morning (0800 - 0900) and over lunch, which should be enough to finally sort the model.

Thanks Andy you have put my mind at rest considerably....a minor case of the panics was setting in I have tried some 3M spray mount and that has worked well, I think the paper solution is a bit poor really but as you say spraying will lose points, and I think I will need as many of those as I can find! I would really like to have used the airbrush to created shading and stuff but I think that is for a different model and another day perhaps!
I will do as you suggest and try with a shortish motor length, and get it to glide reasonably flat, preferably with a slight left turn.
Just got the struts to stain and assemble the beasty now

Well I wouldn't say "AWFUL " but it is a bit unusual to say the least .However having said that it isn't too far off a WW1 cam paint apart from the blotchiness. I would like experiment with some of it to see what could be done with it without painting.
Rubberwise I suggest a single slack loop of the 1/4" rubber. Well lubed and prestretched. Stretch wound . Take another loop of it and wind till destruction having counted the turns . Then use about 75% turns in the model . A blast tube would be handy too but the best guy to have asked is Andy as it is over 40 yrs since I handled rubber . Regarding the roundels to unstick them use a water /Meths mix applied round the edges using Q tips to tease them off. Then clean off any remaining glue.. Now look at the roundels themselves .Are they on a paper backing ? If so they will be waterslide transfers. You float hem in a shallow dish of lukewarm water. Lay them in the water one at a time and allow them to soak for a minute or two trying them from time to time to see if they will slide from the backing..When they do lift them from the water and start them slipping and slide them onto where you want them. pat them into place with a soft cloth from the centre out. Decal sets can be bought from Model suppliers/The waterslide roundels and fin flashes are only very thin films and should wrap around fin edges etc. Again Andy is the real guy to ask for the gen on these. As I Said I think these are water slide . If not get some Good luck Dan

Hi John, thanks for the advice. The paper is definitely "just" paper unfortunately. I found a tin of 3M spray mount and tried that, it certainly made a better job of attaching the upper roundels than the Glue stick did on the bottom. As Andy says tissue paste may be best.
I did manage to get the fin/rudder flash to "form" around the curved edges, using watered pva to soften the paper and then form it around the edges, worked quite well. Still not a patch on sprayed masks, which is my usual method.
Onwards and upwards as the say

This finished third in Kit Class last year, if mine is half as good I will chuffed



and if it actually flies okay then I will be really pleased....

i am expecting 4th or 5th from you sir
and some good flights.

who me??? you are kidding.......14th or 15th maybe

Managed a little time between phone calls/e-mails etc.....
getting closer



Have to work away for a couple of days so that might be it for a little while

Ok Dan Glad you got sorted in the end .I see the one you showed was brown too .Must be special paper . For future reference get hold of some waterslide decals they are easier to apply. There is no reason why you shouldn't do as well mate it looks pretty good to me .

One other bit of advice, which may help sway some of your concerns Septic, is that in BMFA Indoor Kit Scale, the flight score is worth twice the static score. So the static marks are only half as important as the flight marks. Any losses in static should therefore be insignificant when the total score is presented.

This means that we must get the model to fly, but having said that, so must everyone else with their respective machines.

Thanks Andy, lets just hope it isn't damaged during the trimming stages, some perfect evenings up here at the mo, but the model isn't ready. Racking my brains trying to think of some uncut meadow to use for the glides, I presume a barely detectable turn to the left under a glide?



A little painting done...

Septic wrote: ....... I presume a barely detectable turn to the left under a glide?

Looking good Septic, but that's the least I'd expect form a modeller of your caliber...

Yes, a slight left turn on the glide is good. Then try to maintain it under power with slight right side thrust and you also may need some down thrust. You may need some wash-in on the left wing to stop it digging in. Steam in a warp if necessary, but don't put a celluloid tab on it.... they look awful!

You can use scrap balsa for the down and side thrust, which you can remove for static judging.

After putting in all that effort you want me to warp my lovely straight panels, sheesh this free flight malarkey really sets off my CDO......
Going to try and get the wings fitted tonight

Well apart from sorting the motor and prop and setting the c of g we are good to go

Wings are perfectly warp free but the mounting jigs let me down, wont know until I do the glides as to how true they are rigged.... Probably my fault....



doesn't look much like the Shuttleworth Se, but does look like the box colour photo, and that is what matters

26g but that does not include the rubber

Cheers
Danny