150% KK Fairey Gannet for FF Rubber Power

Mike Rolls wrote: A true contra-prop - quite difficult, but a simulation - the rear prop undriven, mounted an a tube rather than a shaft, with the rear prop just freewheeling in the blast of teh 'proper' prop - seen such a device somewhere in the dim and distant past - probably in an Aeromodeller 'Gadget Review, well known some some of teh wacky ideas - no idea if it actually worked though!
Mike

It sounds good in principal Mike, but freewheeling props produce a lot of drag. Also, it makes the prop shaft overly long, which on a free flight model, makes it vulnerable. So in practice, I don't believe it would work.

I did say it was a wacky idea! Mind you - and the more I search my memory, the more I think it was probably in Gadget Review - there were some real odd things on it.Like the guy who used part of the frame of spectacles to create a folding towhook, or using a piece of hacksaw blade screwed flat to the underside of a model but arranged so that it was under tension to provide a 'shock absorbent skid. Then there was the D/T that comprised a hinged door in the side of the model which when opened by fuse burning through a hold down and allowing a weight to be ejected on a line tied to a wing tip - the weight shown in the diagram was a cotton reel! Mind you - some folk did use a released weight as a D/T
Mike

Although ready for test, the weather hasn't been wholly suitable over the last few days, so I've decided to continue with the paint job to have it ready for the Old Warden Scale weekend in 10 or so days time.

Canopies are now off, I've patched some of the bare wood with tissue and EzeDoped the result:

Hmmmmmm... well that didn't work as planned!

I had a similar experience when covering the nose of my Piper . In the end I stuck the tissue to the paper/card with Pritstick before fitting it to the model and didn't dope it. Pre shrinking the paper as for painting by wetting it and then taping it flat to a board first may work too.

Andy
Was that the result of Easydope? Which is water based.
You can dope paper/thin card with the acetate stuff or 'impregnate' it with thin CA.

The paper exhaust tube of my Venom was done like that after it was fixed in the air frame.

Once dry it almost becomes a paper reinforced plastic.
..

Thanks for the input chaps. The above was really to see what effect the EzeDope would have on unprepared paper, the medium stated on the plan for that particular area of the model...and as you can see, it was not a very good one!

I would normally use pre-doped airmail paper, of which I keep a few sq feet on the stock shelf. However, the area between the cockpits has some glazing, so I'm going to cover it with thin acetate and spray silver over all leaving the small glazed areas clear. The acetate will be stuck on the model this evening as I'm busy CADing the Lacey print wood this afternoon..... Spraying is now planned for tomorrow.

I too saw that idea and suggested it to Andy. However thinking about it .it was on an i.c. job and the milling prop was extremely high pitched. Almost feathered in fact. I suppose to reduce drag . Did it work? No report I don't think.

Hi Andy I might be teaching my grandad to suck eggs but when you use paper for comings do you tape it to a board wet it and then cut it to shape and glue in place?

Firewood wrote: Hi Andy I might be teaching my grandad to suck eggs but when you use paper for comings do you tape it to a board wet it and then cut it to shape and glue in place?

When I normally use paper, it will have been taped to a board, pre-shrunk and pre-doped before use. However, cellulose dope can sometimes be used on raw paper, but in this case, I wanted to see what EzeDope would do...

The paper has been replaced with thin acetate, cut to the shape recommended on the plan:

I think the acetate looks better, and probably easier. coming together very nice andy.

Very nice Andy. You mentioned a stock shelf. Can I ask how do you store sheet and strip balsa. I never found a way I was happy with. Any suggestions welcomed .John O/T

One Tenor
I know it was Andy you asked, but hope you don't mind my answering as well.
All my sheet is stored flat on shelves - in the distant past I have known sheets 'bow' if stored vertically unless they are tight up against each other. Bit of a fiddle when the a shelf might have 50 sheets on it to choose a particular piece - thicknesses range from 1/32 to 1/2". strip is stored vertically - never had 'bowing' problems - in vertical pigeon holes making it dead easy to pick out what you want
Mike

My method is similar to Mike's OT, but I also store strip wood, covering materials, tube and wire on shelves. The latter two are in tubes and a home made tray, the rolled tissue, strips and sheet are just layered on each other. Flat tissue is stored in an artist's portfolio and plans are rolled and stored in an architect's chest. The precious stuff, indoor wood, etc, is in separate boxes. The shelves are about 30" deep and came as a unit from IKEA. Essentially, they are open wooden units of about 20" x 30" x 6 ft.

Like you, Andy, I store wire in tubes - amazing how heavy a 4" diameter tube almost full of wire is!
Mike