D.P.R Rare Bird Sailplane

there were additions to be added to the formers when the plane was upside down each with a notch cut in for the towhook, these were all glued in place and the towhook glued into the notches.








Except slight smally problem at former F5, the tow hook was short by a midges........toenail!! Checked the fusalage to the plan, checked the length of the towhook as it came out of the dye cut wood=- all fine, just must have miscalculated when they made the kit but had an idea of making a smally ledge with some of the very light wood and glued this in place on the other side of the former so that the notched former for the towhook could be brought forward a tiny bit. Seems to have worked and am assuming as this is near the middle and the wings, shouldnt affect the weight etc much? Well I hope not lol, or will have to revise this!

Sarah-Jane Smith wrote: Reeeeeeeeeet, Fin done bloomin instructions a tad dodgy here!

F12, F13 and F14 ;are all marked, all face the same way.......oh nooooooooo they don't!! You will notice F12 is missing (bottom left brace. Thats because the makers had printed the number on the wrong side!! Didnt notice until had glued it already lol but rescued, redone and another gusset (especially for Alan ) inserted.
Strips for the uprights and cross members are from 3mm x 3mm
leading and trailing edge are 6mm x 3mm
The two uprights are NOT glued together, that is because I have to cut at the topand then hinge the rudder so it can be adjusted- although not sure how, the two small metal flat plates in the box ...erm..... no idea how to attach? wondered if was meant to bend them around the wood?

Can we have a pic of these plates please, they sound like hinges ??? If so the do NOT wrap round the edges

Garry

There you go Garry.

Fuselage edges bevelled as well as the 2 pieces of 1.5mm fuselage bottom sheeting. After getting these to fit, with a bit of reshaping, bevelled the straight edge so it would fit against the towhook and these were then glued and pinned.

Nose block added and loads of sanding which was really satisfying watching it all take shape, and am really chuffed for my first time
Bit more sanding to do to make sure all is nice and rounded/flush and possibly a bit of filler? Dunno, what do you think guys- I am a bit of a neat freak and perfectionist so would like it to be completely smooth and but am I being too finicky?

ermmmmmmmmmmmmmm.........................

Anyone else ever glued their hair to the balsa cement tube?

the two flat plates are "hinges" now i would chamfer the edges of the rudder at say 45 degs, or les. then fit the bendy hinges in CAREFULLY cut slots in the fin trail edge and the rudder lead edge,you can use your scalpell for this but BE CAREFULL!!! we dont want the woodwork a nice shade of claret do we!! DO NOT glue in at this stage, then when covered you can just slide the fin/hinge/rudder assy together with a dab of glue, UHU or bostic on the hinges before you shove into the CAREFULLY cut slots then hey presto yu have a rudder you can tweak to give the desired turn and it will stay where you bend it to!!

chris

Sarah-Jane Smith wrote: ermmmmmmmmmmmmmm.........................

Anyone else ever glued their hair to the balsa cement tube?

Makes a refreshing change from gluing your thumb to your teeth

Garry

Sarah-Jane Smith wrote:

There you go Garry.

Thanks CJP, couldnt have put it better myself

Garry

Sarah-Jane Smith wrote: ermmmmmmmmmmmmmm.........................

Anyone else ever glued their hair to the balsa cement tube?

I've got no hair to glue to anything.

CeeJayP wrote: the two flat plates are "hinges" now i would chamfer the edges of the rudder at say 45 degs, or les. then fit the bendy hinges in CAREFULLY cut slots in the fin trail edge and the rudder lead edge,you can use your scalpell for this but BE CAREFULL!!! we dont want the woodwork a nice shade of claret do we!! DO NOT glue in at this stage, then when covered you can just slide the fin/hinge/rudder assy together with a dab of glue, UHU or bostic on the hinges before you shove into the CAREFULLY cut slots then hey presto yu have a rudder you can tweak to give the desired turn and it will stay where you bend it to!!

chris

Already coloured part of the wing claret, trying to get a new blade for my craft knife out of the packet, stabbed me finger with it lol!!
Also leant over to do wing, and was so busy concentrating on cutting the wood to size that didnt realise the stood up glue tube was attaching itself to the end of my hair! Did have to snip it out, after finished laughing-not a lot thankfully haha!

Do I chamfer the whole length of the rudder edge or just the bits where the hinges will go?

Sarah
You chamfer the whole edge otherwise the rudder will hit the tail fin when you bend it.

Eric wrote: Try to picture it as two letter V - with the points touching, or you prefer, an X - with the hinge at the cross-over. (or you could use a > and a < but they're a bit too shallow!)

Whaaa..........t?!?!?!?!?!?!