Let's choose a model for Sarah

THE BLACKBIRD wrote: Personaly i will be bloody pleased when Sarah buys model

And why is that BB ????


Beard, couldnt find one last night on the net that was full kit but was getting tired so will do another search today. Does it come under another name at all or just Multiplex funclub??? just incase am googling the wrong name or number???

Am very grateful for everyone helping me out here-it is hard when you are new to a hobby shifting through all the different types, jargon, specs. If can find it this week can finally buy it this week as money goes in friday wooooot!

Sid - will post on other page so not off topic :silly:

I came back into the hobby 3 years ago, and decided to go electric.

I have a fair background in electronics, but all the equipment and terminology as new to me. I was fortunate I understood what was behind things, so my knowledge built up fairly quickly.

BUT, in the mean time, wanting to get flying quickly, there seemed to be a huge amount of data to absorb in a short time, so I understand how you are finding it.

Some people never bother to try and understand it, they just use suggested motor/ESC/prop sizes for similar planes, or ask around and average out the answers. That is fine, and things will normally work out OK.

So don't worry if it seems a bit blurred at the moment, it will fall into place as you go along.

If you are definitely going for a Funcub (cub not club), it will fly well with a 3530 1000/1100kv motor, 10X6 electric prop, 35/40A ESC and 2200mAh 3s lipo.

It is worth getting more than one battery, you don't want to wait an hour or more between flights. A spare prop is useful, but always make sure the motor shaft is straight after you break a prop. A cheap prop balancer is almost essential, and a lipo battery balancer/charger IS essential, you can't charge them with any other charger.

You don't need to fit the flaps on the Funcub, it can be done later. From memory the funcub uses 17g servos.

Don't use epoxy or foam-safe CA, ordinary CA is best. (be careful to keep the glue away from the wing joining tubes if you want to take the wings apart.


I'm sure it will last, get some simulator time first, and the funcub will still be fun in years to come

I realise that I may sometimes come across as ditzy, as a tad saucy, as a joker- it is all part of my personality and partly lack of confidence and putting on a face. BUT I am a very very hands on resourceful person, have been a single parent for 18 years- who do you think ha shad to build the multigym, make the cross trainer, put together the ikea furniture, decorate the house, lay the carpets, do the patio and fencing lol- me thats who, and I am do it all. Tisnt always perfect, I always look up, read up and study thoroughly what i need to do before I do it, am careful, considerate (maybe a little impatient at times lol, am a girl after all :whistle: ) but there is nothing, nobody I have ever asked to do anything I couldn't give a go or have a crack at myself.

Now electrics, thats different lol. Once you start adding different numbers and letters to the end of products - confuses me lol, even the spectrum Dx6i has different additives to it-
Spektrum DX6i DSMX (Mode2) Tx + AR6115E , Spektrum DX6i DSMX (Mode2) Tx + AR6200,Spektrum DX6i DSMX (Mode2) Tx + AR6210


so for me, as a newbie, having you lot help out and narrow it down as you have been doing has been fantastic. I am a great believer in things happening for a reason, if money had been in bank last week as supposed to have been would have spent money on stuff not needed. It wasn't so i couldn't, that has meant I could take my time with you lots help and then can order when paid this week

The funcub is defo coming out tops, and will get other batteries as well as a tester for them as you suggest (garry sent me a lovely mail with a list too of other stuff to get) as well as the sim (which i cant wait to buy too lol cos can fly AND have a cuppa at the same time in the warmth hahaha :whistle: ) One questions, the glues- what is the gorilla stuff i keep reading about, whats the difference?

I cant thank you guys enough for all your help, you have made it so much more simplier to understand, not made fun of me or made me feel stupid and have been fantastic support.

How does this fun cub package sound? www.4-max.co.uk/multiplex-funcub.htm I've no experience with this model, but it does look fun, and will probably be resilient (within reason). Bear in mind that it'll still need assembling, no mean feat for a novice (like me), and will still require a receiver and matching transmitter of your choice, plus a few extra lipos and a charger (as already said). Thinking about it a bit more, I wish I'd bought one of these, and still may do yet. Now that my flying has advanced a bit, I think I'd enjoy it, with added flaps etc.

So Sarah, your initial investment would likely be more around the £300 mark, if you went this route and can't get one 2nd hand, and that's not including club and insurance costs, but worth it if you're hooked. If you were to choose the Radian package from Al's it might be worth asking how much extra it'd be to swap the DX5 for a DX6i, never hurts to ask, and probably still within your £200 target.

I'm sure I still have a basic flight sim and controller somewhere, that you could have for the postage costs only. At least it'll get you flying (and crashing), without any repair costs, and get you used to the different orientations etc.

4 max is only about 5 miles from me,and could probably get the fun cub cheaper by getting a power pack elsewhere.Its best to get good quality batteries,they have more power,last longer for flight duration and a longer life span.

Sarah - the bit about modes, when talking of transmitters - means where the control sticks are. Mode 1 has the throttle stick and the rudder on the right, and the ailerons and elevator on the left. Mode two has ails and eles on the right, and throttle and rudder on the left. There are other variations, too, but it will only confuse you.

Gorilla glue claims to stick anything to anything. It is a polyurethane glue that foams up as it cures, and makes an awful mess if you put too much on. My personal opinion, having used it, is it is rubbish!

PVA glue, (Evostik woodworker and others) is a water-based wood glue, that is white while it is wet, but dries clear. It sticks wood (no kidding!) and card, paper, and a few other things. It stays very slightly rubbery, so remains flexible. It won't stick fingers, and can be washed off, before it sets. It will just peel off fingers.

Contact glue (Evostik bostik) is a petroleum based glue for large areas. you spread it on both surfaces, let it partly dry, then put the parts together. AS SOON AS THEY TOUCH they are stuck!

Cyano (superglue) is in two forms, a slow drying thick paste, and an almost instant thin liquid. It will stick fingers to anything! It tends to dry brittle, but on balsa, it soaks into the wood, and gives a good join.

Contact and cyano STINK, and need to be used in a well-ventilated area.
Cyano can cause allergies.
Contact can catch fire if near a naked flame, because of the petroleum fumes. Once it is dry, it is ok.

Eric wrote: Contact glue (Evostik bostik) is a petroleum based glue for large areas. you spread it on both surfaces, let it partly dry, then put the parts together. AS SOON AS THEY TOUCH they are stuck!

Petroleum or Acetone Eric? Either way keep it well away from foam!
Also check Acrocyanoacrilates (Cyano) on a bit that doesn't matter! Not all Cyanos are foam friendly!

Multipex do there on glue Zaggy and that the best to use.I buy the Zaggy and activator.You put the glue on one part and activator on the other.,works a treat.

And on the Multiplex Elapor, you should not use foam safe CA if you don't use their own brand, use ordinary CA, with plenty of ventilation, gluing the fuselage sides together means there is a large exposed area of glue to give off fumes, and the fumes give some people a headache, itch eyes, tight chest or other reactions.

It is always a good idea to test any glue on a spot you won't see anyway

Your right Steve Mpx Zaggy is perfect but when using other cyanos ive seen fumes pouring off the elapor ,it getting hot and melting the items fusing themselves together.As you say Ive then needed to have the door wide open as my eyes are watering so much.

I fly Mode 2 which I believe is the norm,I know Garry flies mode Garry,so we need to discus this with Sarah so she gets the right mode for herself.

Mode 2 puts the aelerons and elevator on the right hand stick, which is the same as a real plane, so makes sense to me. Makes it tricky when you're flying airobatics though.

Full-size aerobat pilots seem to manage ok with ails and ele on the stick!

Somebody once told me it Mode 1 made it easier to feed in known amounts of rudder and elevator in axial rolls. All it did with me is cause confusion! A lot of the Japanese RC pilots use Mode 1.

I sometimes find myself adjusting the throttle while using the rudder, same with the other stick. I think I'd be too confused to switch from mode 2 now, but I believe I can increase the tension on both sticks, which may prevent unintended control movements. It's on my to do list :whistle: