PA-18 Super Cub for the BMFA R/C Scale Indoor Nats

Hi Martyn, I did initially start with small blocks, but apart from the odd ding it isn't as bad as all that and was slowing the process down. This is tiny and the wood really thin so the load is very light. But I take your point and this was why Andy suggested and additional "sacrificial" layer, applied without glue.

Rudder next

Cheers
Danny

Danny,

Try painting the outer lamination with a drop of water to moisten it. I have found that wood will swell and the dings may disappear voluntarily. They *know* when they are not wanted

A little more done while waiting for the blessed tail bits to dry. Only drawback with soaking parts, they take a while to dry out.
Anyway the rudder is also complete, and I have added the combing over the dash.






Hopefully more later

And yes i forgot to add sellotape to the former, that will be fun trying to get it apart later......

A little more time invested in the Cub, all the tail surfaces are made, and the tailplane and rudder are sanded. Just have to give the parts plenty of time to dry. Super-Phatic sands well but only when it is FULLY dry!





Soon be time for the wings, I am really looking forward to that bit as I am building the wings using a new technique to me with split ribs, what could possibly go wrong

Started on the wings today, new technique to me, but then again most of this modelling lark is new to me









Cheers
Danny

Hi Danny

Some stupid questions.
1. Is the top photo a carved and sanded block template?
2. What is happening on the second photo?
3. the 3rd photo looks like you are stripping ribs on the inside edge of the curve - I don't think that is possible
4. I understand the 4th photo. Whatever you did worked and it looks very neat. Cracking plan as well

Sorry about that. I need to know as I may be doing something similar soon

Hi Martin, there is no such thing as a stupid question my friend glad somebody is curious
the block is maple, though it could be any wood, its just I have some maple kicking about. It simply has the rib upper profile on one surface and the lower rib profile on the opposite surface. It was then bandsawed and drum sanded. As it happens the curve on the lower rib leading edge is not significant and can be sanded into straight 1/16th dtrips, so they wont get formed.
The second photo shows the block wrapped in clear parcel tape. Then has two laminations of watered pva taped to it. Once dry these form a nice curved sheet.
The third picture shows I am stripping the curved sheet into 1/16th wide strips, the ones already cut have toppled over onto their side, does that make sense?
As you say the 4th is fairly obvious
Cheers
Danny

Simple when you know how.

as usual another master class from the second main man.

Thanks Tony

The wing has actually gone together quite well, not sure what is going on at the tips yet, but that will sort itself out I am sure.





The leading edge of the full size cub wing is sheeted in alloy, I am going to use paper. Sounds like it could be fun

Yes balsa wetted with watered pva. Actually Evo stik resin w.
Cheers
Danny

Septic wrote:

The leading edge of the full size cub wing is sheeted in alloy, I am going to use paper. Sounds like it could be fun

One of the problems I found using paper is that when you apply tissue and dope it has a very different colour density and finish as the (cartridge) paper I used was less absorbent to dope. It will be interesting to see how you get on.

Good luck

Hi Martyn, yes it will be interesting, I am using yellow Esaki, and I will spray Cub yellow over that. Are you referring to just the raw tissue not masking the white of the cartridge paper?? Did you spray over the top?
I was toying with printing the reg etc onto the tissue but I will make stencils, as I am comfortable with that route.

Cheers
Danny

Septic wrote: Hi Martin, there is no such thing as a stupid question my friend glad somebody is curious
the block is maple, though it could be any wood, its just I have some maple kicking about. It simply has the rib upper profile on one surface and the lower rib profile on the opposite surface. It was then bandsawed and drum sanded. As it happens the curve on the lower rib leading edge is not significant and can be sanded into straight 1/16th dtrips, so they wont get formed.
The second photo shows the block wrapped in clear parcel tape. Then has two laminations of watered pva taped to it. Once dry these form a nice curved sheet.
The third picture shows I am stripping the curved sheet into 1/16th wide strips, the ones already cut have toppled over onto their side, does that make sense?
As you say the 4th is fairly obvious
Cheers
Danny

Thanks Danny

Photo 1&2 - That surprised me slightly. When I was building indoor duration models, the ribs were sliced using a template in a traditional panner from very light 1/64 balsa, not sliced from a warped piece of sheet. Your requirement is different and your ribs are supported by the main spar so will be prevented from straightening

The 3rd photo - I can see that now - at first glance the sheet looked like it was on its side as I was expecting the slices to be cut from a template. Your method makes it look very easy..

Brilliant