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Seagull 61" Sparrowhawk to be Christmas Build
- The Beard
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- old fart
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There is nothing like a dream to create the future.
Electrickery is the work of the devil.
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- The Beard
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- Eric
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They do tend to trip models over, though, if you fly from a grass field.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Heliboy31
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I have just acquired one of these models (second hand but looks unflown) -- although mine has been built with the "electric" configuration.
Whilst searching the internet looking for info on battery sizes, prop sizes and ESC spec, I was slightly surprised that there didn't seem to be many (build/flying) web pages dedicated to this specific model..... but then I stumbled across this wonderful thread.
I have just read the whole thread and, although yours is nitro/IC powered, there are a few nuggets of gold in the thread that can help me finish off my model. So thank you for posting.
One thing though that has confused me slightly, is the matter of C of G position. Would you help and give me a little bit of extra guidance on this please?
In your posts you talk about the best C of G position being at 75mm.... but it doesn't say where this is measured and 75mm from where (---- I assume this is 75mm back from the leading edge but where is it measured spanwise?) There is also a figure of 110mm mentioned. Could I enquire where these measurements come from please?
I have downloaded a set of the manufacturer's assembly instructions and these specify the C of G as :-
"1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced
correctly. Improper balance will cause
your plane to lose control and crash. The center
of gravity is locate 55mm back from the
leading edge of the wing, measured at wing
tip."
.... by my measurement this seems to equate to a distance of 90mm aft of the leading edge measured at the wing root.
....So I am a little confused by the figure of 75mm.
I know this thread was started quite some time ago, but it looks like the model is still alive and flying (at least back in June of this year) and therefore proven & up to date data is available which is great.
Many thanks for any help you can provide.
Regards
H31
PS what size prop are you using?
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- Garry Pollard
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This one dates back a long time, however "Beard" is an active member, and will pick this reply to his thread up when he next logs on
However, he may not be able to help you out as much as some other members on here, who like myself at 100% electric.
The c of g is normally measured from the L/E of the wing next to the fuz , and on this one i would expect that to be the case , however you state the measurement is at the wing tip, so I will leave Beard to maybe answer that
As far as prop size is concerned, because you are using electic we need to know motor size ESC size, and lipo size as these factors determin what prop is used
As an aside have you purchased a watt meter yet, if not you will need one believe you me
While you are waiting for Beard to come on, maybe you could drop a post in "Introduce yourself " thread, as with some info about yourself and how far you are on with this great hobby, we will be able to offer you much more advise
Garry
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- Garry Pollard
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"The latest Seagull models include an electric conversion kit for FREE allowing you to fit an electric motor of your choice instead of an IC motor! There is a comprehensive set of instructions in the manual on how to do this. Look for the EP logo below!"
The question is , HAVE you got the conversion kit. It can be done without of course, and I would say that if you have the earlier one . However, if the canopy is removable, an electric conversion should be quite simple
Garry
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- Eric
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So - you need to check what size prop the manufacturer recommended, then find a rage of motors that will turn this prop.
Having done that, you have to look further into the motor specifications, to find out what VOLTS it will take. (The kv number is the number of revs per volt that the motor will turn at). That will give you an idea of the number of cells in the lipo pack, and the motor's weight.
Find a lipo pack of the number of cells that will fit into the available space in the model, and find it's weight. The bigger the mah number, the better, as it will last longer per charge. Look also at the 'burst' power of the pack. That's not when it explodes, it is the short term max output the pack can deliver. (25c is average - or 25 times the capacity, so an imaginary 1c battery can deliver 25 amps for a short burst).
Now - weigh the model, with the servo's etc in it, and add the weight of the motor and battery pack.
Juggle the numbers until you find a motor that will turn the prop, the battery pack it needs that will fit, etc, and that will give you the 100 Watts per pound. (or more!)
That gives you a 'ball-park' start-point.
You will of course need a speed controller, but the extra weight of these is negligible, maybe an ounce for a large one.
As Garry put, you NEED a Wattmeter. You cannot see amps of electricity, so you HAVE to have one, to see what is going on. It doesn't fly in the model, it is just a piece of test equipment like a tacho.
Then you need a dedicated lipo charger. A nimh one will not do, any more than your 12v car charger!
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Safety is vital. An electric motor will NOT stall if you get anything in the way of the prop. So, if you are just fiddling around, testing and checking - TAKE THE PROP OFF. (obviously not if you are checking the Amps the motor is using, spinning the prop!)
NEVER charge lipo's in the house or car, or the model.
NEVER leave a lipo plugged in.
NEVER switch the transmitter off, if the lipo in the model is plugged in.
Don't rely on your car battery for recharging lipo's at the field. You might find, after a few charges, your car won't start because the battery is flat!
As this sounds like it is your first electric model, there is a lot to learn, and I strongly suggest you get on with learning before you connect anything up.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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