Prusa Mk 4
- Klipkopwildlife
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First up temperature causes discolouration
This is the Wanna play, the light colour is 225C, the dark is 240C, the sizing is still correct, the Filament is eSun, natural.
I've been trying to reprint some Rise Nano parts using the grey without much success, but, I've been printing at 225C because that's what I always do! I upped the temperature to 240C and was surprised at the almost perfect print.
Heartened by this I decided to reprint a wingtip at 250C
Much better quality especially at the tip, note there is a temperature discolouration. The brim also feels a lot stiffer than the ones printed at lower temperatures.
Yes Simon, all filaments are not created equal.
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Eric
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Eric
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I still miss her.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Eric
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if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- jon.in.swansea
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Actually, if there is a wee gap in the TODO list for the house I really would like to take the PlanePrint outer form and recast it with vase-mode ribs and see how they compare.
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Jon very kindly offered to help and I downloaded and installed FreeCad 1.0 I've tried before and got nothing beyond the face page, even after looking over Jon's shoulder when he made me some Jerry can seals back in 2023.
First problem, the 'How to' I looked at didn't remotely resemble what I had on my screen! Jon sent me a link to a guy using version 1.0 in his teaching aid. Bearing in mind that I rarely get much more than 45minutes without interruption, after a week or so I got to the stage where I actually managed to make some sealing rings for 20ltr oil drums. They have high value here, washed out and used as water containers.
At this point, Jon bless him, realised why I was stuck and sent me another link that used the function I could use, Revolution!
It took me another day or so to realise that you must not use the Create Part function, I finally got it, with a lot of help from my friend.
I used a layer thickness of 0.1mm because I wanted a nice sharp lip.
How I wish we had material and machines like this back in the day when I was Maintenance Manager and Mr Fix it for a large Factory. Sometimes we had to wait weeks for spares
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Eric
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In a car-repair garage a couple of weeks ago, the guy was grousing to the parts delivery van man that they were still waiting for a track-rod for a well-known brand of car. They could get the ends anywhere, from the alternative parts places, but not a track rod itself. They'd had to make one from a bit of threaded bar, with the ball-ends welded on, so they could move the vehicle they've had for six months.
if you are calm and collected when all about you are going berserk - you've missed something important!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Quorneng
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Gone are the days when Ford UK made just 3 engines. 4 cylinder "Kent" from 848cc to 1600cc and the V4 & V6 "Essex" from 2000cc to 3000cc.
All so simple!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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I am having some success with printing ABS
This is as a result of trying to print some ailerons for the Jetwing
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Quorneng
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I suppose a fully heated cabinet would reduce the problem but a standard A8 would need some reconfiguration to get all its electronics outside the cabinet so its PLA for me!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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I then battled with stringing, I found the only cure was to reduce the temperature to the minimum shown on the label and introduce 2 things, a Travel Retraction of 2mm and a Deretraction prime of 0.05mm. This is resulting in very good quality prints in ABS.
I hasten to add this is all very machine specific.
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- jon.in.swansea
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Remember ages ago I took the Clarke Y airfoil for several simple wings and was able to design in a set of spars to form via vase mode printing. I found it yielded a fairly stiff wing.
Clarke Y has that flat base so it was straightforward to setup simple shapes needed.
Well the Rise Nano from Planeprint has a not-at-all simple airfoil, indeed it seems to transition to quite a few different shapes as it progresses from the root. Planeprint recently moved to using a gyroid fill for most of their parts.
I am really really chuffed - after a half dozen tries I figured out how to drive freeCAD to take that original STL and create some useful variants.
Say you had a complex wing form (as an STL file) but wanted to create an alternative wing that used a CF spar and ribs that you could cover yourself?
I base this on a YouTube video I found that discusses out to take a boat hull and create a set of bulkheads. I will probably make the steps I describe below clearer if you have a look at this video: Here is one path to create a set of ribs that exactly match that complex wing form.... a similar set of steps could take a STL fuselage so you could create matching bulkheads...
In freeCAD open up a new document, go into the Part workbench. First step import the STL file
Highlight the mesh and choose the option to convert the mesh into a shape
A pop-up asks about 'sewing the shape' stick with the default.
The next step is to convert the shape to a solid
The mesh is huge so there are an over-the-top number of polygons. There is an option to make a copy of the solid which is 'refined'.
To make a set of ribs you need to create a set of surface-like entities. I tried several ways that didn't work and went back to the YouTube suggestion using the curves workbench (this is an add-on) and something called an ISO curve mesh that can be applied to a face.
First step is to create a cube that is slightly bigger than the wing.
The next is to highlight a face of the cube and apply an ISOmesh to it. One dimension is zero and the other I made 16 so as to get 15 evenly spaced lines.
Hide the box (via space bar) and then that set of lines can be extruded - I did the extrude 120mm.
I am being called to dinner so will continue this post later.....
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