AUSTIN A35 1957 MODEL

Morning chaps, regarding Erics advice on poor starting malcolm starts perfect once it is started, but first time it takes ages as if fuel has to get back up to plugs again, can't find a fuel bowl, could it be something else in the carb?
Thanks for looking, boz

Morning Boz, before the first start of the day, take the air cleaner off and pour a table spoon of petrol down the carburettor. Then try a start without the choke, if he starts immediately then stops you probably have a twofold problem, one the fuel pump needs replacing (it's a mechanical pump on the side of the engine) or a new kit fitting, and two, the float bowl somehow leaks, probably down into the inlet manifold.
If he doesn't start, he's too rich, ie the petrol has run out of the carburettor down into the inlet manifold overnight. This means a careful inspection of the disassembled carburettor. Certain corrosive elements in petrol can create pin holes over time.

Well thanks for that advice, I slacken the fuel pipe where it enters the carb, it was dry!


I then followed it down to the pump, the nut on top of the pump was only finger tight


I removed that nut and removed the cover, the pump had fuel in it , the rubbero ring looked like it was in good condition so I put the cover back on and made a rubber gasket to put under the security g nut on top of the pump, then tightened it down firmly, as klippy suggested air was probably getting in from there or the fuel pipe on carb, I put some thread tape on that nut also, and tightened it down firm, as it was not too tight to start with.


I won't know until the morning if it has been successful or not.
Then I replaced the air filter assembly, I say that in the most loose terms as you can see from picture it is very basic compared to today's expensive systems


The car is also missing quite badly over the last few days, it's worse when it gets to normal temp, the plugs are new the points are good and gapped to 15ml, the ht leads look Good and the coil is new, could it bee the condenser? The rotor arm is good and I have a new Dissi cap coming Tuesday, thanks for looking, boz

New plugs but what type/grade?
The A series can be quite fussy on plugs particularly as it gets a build up of carbon. Not that carbon build up is necessarily bad - it was always said the A series only ran really sweetly when it was!

Those air cleaners were designed to be dipped in oil before fitting. Sounds like the mixture is a bit rich, get some one to rev the motor while you stand at the exhaust pipe, is there black smoke coming out when warm? If so the you have a jetting problem, which wouldn't surprise me given its age.
Plugs, I seem to remember N9Y was the plug of choice, BP6HS should be the modern equivalent. The plug gaps will be gapped nib at 40thou, for a non electronic system you need 25thou, or .626mm. Contact gap 15ml, not sure what you mean there Boz, the gap when fully open should be 14 to 16 thousandths of an inch, or .35mm to .4mm. A bad condenser will give accelerated pitting on the points, and, maybe a slight hesitation as the engine picks up revs. For what they cost, best fit a new one anyway!

All good advice Boz but you said you could not find the float bowl. It is incorporated into the carb body casting and is where the fuel pipe runs into the carb.
There should be some useful stuff here www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-i...draught+carburettors Even if to just identify which model you have. One of the probs which can occur is if water has got into the system and caused corrosion of the Mazak castings. This can block jets etc . Pop the carb top off with a recon kit for you'r model to hand. Even better take the carb off the car and dunk it in thinners. This will clean up both the outside and the inside and channels . Clean out any of the white concrete like corrosion and check carefully for pin holes.If any are found they need opening just a little and filling with hard setting epoxy like Araldite original or a later better one . You should be able to do a Google for the best one to use.. I never found any probs using the original type though. Make sure it comes through the hole and is "Mushroomed " on both sides Change the jets making sure that the channels are clear by jetting through with water .Use a paint sprayer for this. air might do it it but the water is surer. Hydraulic effect being better then pneumatic..Replace spindle bushes and jets from the kit . Reassemble with the new gaskets "o" rings etc and replace on manifold with the new gasket for that too. Almost forgot renew the float needle too. The VEE tip type are best as they will take up any slight wear on the inlet valve seat in the float chamber as they have a rubber tip. Keep up the good work It's worth doing I hope i'm not teaching Grannny [badass] [badass]

Mazak - :S There have been recent discussions in the model railway press about mazak castings for loco chassis'. It has been found to deteriorate over time, and warps, and can crack or crumble!
So make sure there are no micro-cracks in the castings, and that any jointing surfaces are truly flat!

I forgot to mention checking the joint faces for flatness. I have seen crumbly Mazak but thought it was due to corrosion. Thanks for t the heads up Eric

Well boys thanks for that help, I set off to work in malcolm this morning and only got to the top of the street, had to push it back home,
It would not rev and was running very badly, however it seamed to tick over ok although quite slow, as all the plugs points etc look like they are quite new I'm beginning to think as you are that the problem is in the carb, I will be removing it asap for a good inspection, pics to follow, I will have to locate a gasket set and jets be for I start to dismantle it, thanks again for the very detailed assistance.
It's very nice to know that there are obviously some very expirienced mechanics anongst you, thanks again.
Boz

Points were gapped to 15thou not ml as I said earlier,
Fuel had drained back to pump this morning, so it's all pointing to carb,
Thought fuel bowl was the glass thingy fitted to some old bangers but not on this one, that's why I could not find it lol.
Thanks for looking boz

The glass thingy was on the fuel filter or if on top of a part it was pump top
Like on these pages Boz www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-i...uel+pumps+with+glass I hope this helps. Some carbs did have remote float chambers but not many were glass. for safety reasons .Heat and vibration above engine etc. It was only VERY early ones that had them and were soon replaced by alloy and Mazak castings Which do not break if you knock 'em LOL Even the pump glasses were phased out for the type you have.Get a pump service kit and replace all the bits. Or a replacement pump as found in the link D o the same with the carb but in the meantime check if there is a drain plug under the float bowl. If there is one take it out clean it and round the hole and replace it with a new sealing washer round it .Nip it up but don't over tighten .Check for leaks and tighten just enough to stop the leak and no more. Check each day for leaks for while.Also check for leaks around the top edges of the carb top to float chamber and carb body. This is why I suggested getting a carb overhaul/ service kit which will have all you need to strip and rebuild the carb. Google will find all you will want . I wish I could be alongside you to guide you.It would be fun. Anything I can help with just ask

I took the carb off this evening, and the first thing g I noticed was that the advance/retard vacuum pipe was only finger tight


Anyway removed carb




I didn't want to do too much to it as I'm still hoping to use it for work until my jeep gets back from main dealers after putting wrong fuel in it.
So just did a very basic check on it,

I cleaned what I could for now, and will do a complete strip down later

I don't have the gasket set yet so hope it don't Leake




Will let you know tomorrow.
Thanks John for your help and very detailed post, hope you enjoy the pics , thanks for looking boz

Will try and get gasket set asap but hoping it's OK for a few more days just to get me to work

Ok Boz that looks to be sound and clean. i.e. none of the horrible white corrosion inside The original gasket looks sound so put the whole top with gasket into a bowl of warm ( not hot ) water for a couple of minutes.This softens the gasket a little to make a good seal when replacing the top.Smear a /LITTLE./ vaseline on it to help the gasket spread. The float and jets look ok from what I can see,I would have liked to see the float needle tip though.I suspect it is worn and not air / petrol tight which is why the fuel runs back overnight to the pump.Please get the poor thing into a bowl of thinners with a lid on and leave for a while then use a stiff brush like a toothbrush to shift the crud. You'll be surprised how well it comes up. The loose coupling you mentioned certainly wouldn't help. A couple of turns of PTFE tape round the olive / flair will help sealing without needing to overtighten the unions on any connexion when reassembling..Good luck. Any. q's just ask
P.S. please check very very carefully for leaks round all of the joints when full again. Don't want you going up in flames

Thanks John, can get the repair kit for about £26 from zenith so will get that underway if there are any probs when I put it back on car, is the float needle the thing that lives above the float, that cuts the fuel off when the float pushes up to it?, if so will post a pic later.
I followed your advice and looked online regarding making sure the jointing surfaces are true, fortunately mine looks pretty good and I did not notice any lakes when it was on car,great comments John, thanks again, boz