Auster mk5

these ones are on the trailing edge eric and will be seen under the covering.

Tony B wrote: having been told that i have made an error i need to change some thing on the build today.

the auster i am building has only one trim tab, so i need to replace one with some more curved and laminate wood.

i would quote word for word the response i got when i asked if they would fit a second trim tab to the full size to save me the bother, cos it was rude.

But the missus did get her point across, didn't she Tony.

cut and fitted rear spar number two.
finished the riblets on wing one.
will start gluing in all 16 riblets in wing two later.
then i will sand the l/e down and sheet the D box.
on the pictures i have, the D box does not go right back to the spar.
will have to see how strong it is when done.

Tony
I may be wrong but the wooden Auster wing did not use a D box structure.
I seem to remember a small part of the actual leading edge was thin ply(?) but you could clearly see the riblets under the fabric both above and below the wing but I of course I cant find a suitable picture that shows it.
People don't seem to take close up pictures of their Auster's wing leading edge!

I do Q!

For info, although the spar is wood, the ribs and the LE sheeting are aluminium.






Footnote - Tony already has a copy of these, and other pics of our Auster.

Thanks Andy, nice pictures.
It does confirm there is no D box just a leading edge covering.

i'm just worried about strength, but saying that i did not do a "D" box on my barnstormer build and that wing does not twist.
so i will sheet the leading edge back to halfway between the l/e and spar and then see if it twists.

You can still make the LE sheet into a 'D' box Tony, by putting 1/32" webs at the back of the sheeting. But as you say, you shouldn't need it on your model given the flying limitations you'll be imposing on it. In any event, even without the 'D' box, the wing will still be stronger than the wing mounting.

It's still looking good btw.

well you cut some 6mm like this and then glue in place.






leave for a few hours, while you finish adding riblets to the other wing.

how detailed do plans have to be.
cos i am saving all my drawings for the Auster, with the intention of drawing up some proper plans to keep or maybe to sell on. (if there is any interest out there)

Surely the original did not need a D box because it had wing struts attached to each spar which resisted any twist.

On the other hand the single strut AOP9 did have a big D box back to the main spar.

Tony B wrote: how detailed do plans have to be.
cos i am saving all my drawings for the Auster, with the intention of drawing up some proper plans to keep or maybe to sell on. (if there is any interest out there)

The short answer is as detailed as you want to make them Tony.

If you want or sell them, make sure that all the parts of the model are drawn with incidences and angles where appropriate. Make sure all component materials, sizes and grades are there together with info on anything specific to the model. For the size and type of machine you're building, you don't need to go into too much detail in respect of build this bit first and stick this piece to that - you can assume a level of basic knowledge. You could even write a small disclaimer to that effect on the plan.

One tip I was given by a prolific plan seller before I started doing it myself was that apparently, modellers believe a smaller piece of paper with a lot of info on it is better value than a larger piece of paper with the same info spread out. The smaller plan is cheaper to produce and apparently, sells better.

If you take a look at the Complete-a-Pac plan I sent you, that should give you an idea of what's required.