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3D printing Widgets
- Magpie
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I must have lost the random seam change sometime so put it back plus the scarf movement.
Now I've got a surface finish problem. It looks like the old metal pinned drums on fairground organs. I've started it again without to see what happens.
I tweaked one corner of the table & it started lovely the past twice.
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- jon.in.swansea
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With a small test cube try printing the first 10 layers or so it at 200C and retry at 205C and 210C etc and notice how it flows. Eventually you will find a sweet spot for that filament brand.
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- Magpie
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The surface finish is now the main problem. I've taken off the Scarf movement which improved it by more than 50% & introduced some retraction.
This has improved it more but not as good as when the seam was just left at the end of each layer.
What numbers should I put in? Theres quite a few parameters under Travel.
(The manual that came with the printer doesn't say anything really, most of it is setting up Cura, obviously a copy & paste job.)
My son is now asking about making parts for his beloved Ford Capri.
Reading up on it, it seems ABS is the way to go but I don't know if my printer can reach the temperatures I've seen recommended. The controls on the printer allow to select 280 nozzle & 80 bed. The nozzle reached it, the bed struggled to get there under a blanket.
What would you alter to compensate for that? Speed?
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- jon.in.swansea
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ABS on a small - open bed printer. Likely to be a frustrating experience. ABS is known for warping unless done in an enclosed printer that can maintain temperatures well above room temperature.
PLA normally will not survive in an automotive context, PETG might last a bit longer. There might be other alternatives to ABS that I don't know about.
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- Magpie
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Without the Random Z-seam alignment and Retract the finish is perfect but there is an operation scar all up one side.
Scarf seam makes it worse, more pronounced threads & pins.
Layer thickness 0.17mm
Outer wall wipe distance 0.0mm
Z-seam alignment at Random
Scarf seam 0.0mm
Retract is on
Retract distance 1.0mm
I'll look at making an enclosure, I got a small seed tray heating pad I could use as well.
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- Magpie
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I've looked at their sample CAT gcode file, they use 205deg for the nozzle & 60 deg for the table.
I can't gleam anything else.
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- Magpie
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Been trying other things on FreeCad such as putting a transverse hole on a cone. Watched a video on putting one across a cylinder which I can do but the technique wouldn't work on a cone. However I may have worked out a way to do it but ran out of time.
To make use of the printer I started another Spindel for the Schraubstock. After going about 10 minutes we got the National Alert & seconds later a power cut. Why that happened I don't know.
I restarted the Spindel & was using the yellow Geetech filament. I went downstairs while it was trundling on, Later when I came up to check it there was a strong smell of fish! Has anyone else had that?
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- Klipkopwildlife
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I only use Esun or Colorfab so can't comment on smell
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Quorneng
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Don't know about it smelling of fish.
I have found that ABS does not give the same smooth surface finish as PLA.
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- Magpie
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These are the screws I had to remove to access the Z-axis home switch.
It wasn't faulty & nobody had been at it as all the screws were all still loctited in so its got to be the main board & it won't reload the firmware
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- Magpie
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Every step took some time, say 20 seconds which is long in computer time, plus the imported jaw was 111mm from the origin
Now waiting to see what it prints out like as its on the bottom.
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- Magpie
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If a specially shaped jaw was wanted, say to hold a hexagon vertically, the way to do it would be to print out an add-on & maybe pin it to the sxisting one using a couple of holes.
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- Quorneng
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As you have found printing ABS has its surface problems.
I printed a small cone in grey ABS at 240C.
It is pretty rough!
As a comparison I printed the same thing but at 220C and one at 190C in PLA.
Maybe slightly better at 220C but nothing like as good as using PLA!
Then there are the issues of ABS lifting from the bed during printing.
It is up side down in this picture. That surface is supposed to be flat as it is a motor mount!
In PLA it sticks firmly to the bed so is flat!
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- Klipkopwildlife
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The ABS printed item is on the right, the splitting was caused by me not noticing that the fan was on at 20%
Ostensibly the settings were the same, the Prusa sliced item is on the left, obviously all things are not equal!
Do it now, you may never get another chance
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- Magpie
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What have I missed?
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